^all good photos, but yeah, that first one is cool...looks like newport CA on a south swell and full moon...but without the massive crowd.
Saw some dolphins today. Two guys cruising a little ways off into the waves. The line up was all smiles, all easy. It was awesome.
yesterday morning i finally scored. nothing huge, but head high on set and just f***ng reeling. i was in the land of Chowderfest, a haven for PA pasty cracker families, and it was a ghost town aside from the surfing. i was south, way further south than i typically venture, and i can say it was definitely worth it. it was worth contending for a parking spot, worth jockeying for waves with the 100 other guys out. it was just worth it. it was proof again to me that a large crowd, if it is not an aggro doosh-fest, is not a crowd at all. i hope other folks got it good as well.
Aww dang, I haven't surfed that joint since the El Nino of '83. It went off, but those damn little red langostinos that washed up all over LJ that summer were pinching the crap out of all my fun parts out in the water. So many summers wasted at "Semper Fi" Street cleaning sand out of crevices I didn't know existed. Glad to be backe, Amigo. There's a new Brad in towne, and I've made it my new personal mission to assist the Swellie Brotherhood to ensure that nothing that gets thrown in the water is left unsoaked.
Thanks, Yank. Watch out for O Barry, I think he wants to wrest the Krusty Krown from your kranium LOL.
Barry is pretty decent in the Hate Dept; he even has his signature line, like he's the Harry Caray of SI Forum ("you're a moron!") Maybe establish a distinct category: Curmudgeon of the Year There can be only one candidate.
Some nice shots, NICA! (Oct 7) Was able to squeeze in 2 sessions/day over the past 3 days and am a sore old man this Friday night as a result. Good kind of hurt though. Just relaxing now, throwing back a few cold ones, listening to tunes (Audioslave), watching the Dodgers-Mets game (top of the 4th, Mets ahead 1-0), and posting here. "Multi-tasking" Go Mets!
Nah bro, I think I'll just wuss out and go all old man and sh!t and stay home and try to surf the local break with 25 mile per hour south winds while you surf 6' tubing glassy point waves (solo), all the while cursing my existence for having to work some menial job with a bunch of lumberjacks for the next week. You know I hate you, right? Besides, I wouldn't feel right rocking up to that lineup in the Porsche...you know what I mean