who here has been surfing this week?

outer banks was pretty goddamn fun yesterday.... chest to shoulder high barrels with offshore winds. my friend i surfed for 9 hours straight with no one around. damn i wish we had conditions like that more often. im so tired today haha. no pictures though... secret spot

 

The power of youth.....awesome

 

I am honored!!!
Moron......

 

Trev, you around?

 

Dude, he's too busy scoring right now. We just had a run of quality surf here for the last couple of weeks and I'm tuckered out.

 

I went out here in Atlantic Beach on Friday night. Was a last little gust of Joaquin in there I think. (still to much for this new surfer old guy). Sat Morning was small but glassy clean which was prefect for my skill level.

 

15-20 foot doom bombs. most memorable session. the only time ive seen the pacific northwest maxed out and clean

scope todays bouy readings and factor in local swell magnets would magnify

http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=46248

 

Wind was on it at the nearby beach, so I pilgrimaged to a nice left-handed point for some more warm water long-period south swell. The crowd was light when I got there, so I paddled out and caught nonstop waves for the first 45 minutes. Then the crowd came up so I bailed. Maybe sorta burned the living bejeezus out of a longboarder as I left on accident.

The poor dood was paddling like a madman all the way from the outside. I shoulda let him go, or passed on it, but I didn't think he could catch it. Maybe he woulda. Either way, I got it. It was mediocre, so I hope he caught a better one later.

 

Just wanted to give props to my dawg Trevolution. Comes to fight fires out here in the PNW during the fire season, and his surfing and charisma practically earns him "local" status.

A slow, funky summer made way to a 3-week period of clean and varied surf conditions. We were able to score anything from 2'-3' offshore A-frames to lurching 5'-6' peaks in the middle of the Harbor (doing it's best North Peak Blacks impression) to 6'-8' Jetty slingshot peaks with big clean rippable walls.

Then the guy goes south and scores epic cold water Indo for 3 days straight...this is why I call him "The Animal".

If all you Rhode Island guys surf like Trev, we may have to pass a local ordinance to keep you off our peaks. I don't know if the local girls would dig it too much tho.

Godspeed young Trev...see ya next year

 

Got this spot to myself for an hour. It was awesome

 

^^^ That's quite the endorsement, Trev must rip!

 

Yeah I always dug Trev. Wow, that hurts he didn't even say hello. I might have to get high.

However, no one can surf in New England. No disrespect to Trev. But there just aren't any Rob Kelly's or Ben Gravy's up there.

AH, Seldom Seen is getting angered, right now. Ha.

One time when I mentioned the subject in person, Seldom Seen got this piercing look of Kung Fu Panda in his eyes as he told me aboot New Englanders doing shred on waves of consequence.

I don't know, man.

Did you guys know that Seldom Seen could whip both DPSUP and R-Carted? He is a very humble man. I wouldn't tangle with him, even if I was drunk and all pissy cause I need more drugs.

Hmmm, now that I'm thinking aboot this, New Englanders shred.

Now Washington and Oregon, oh man, totally ain't no Jamie Moran's or Sam Hammer's up there. They don't deserve Seaside. Bastards.

You guys should have seen what I surfed yesterday, and I shred. Just ain't fair.

 

Too f'n funny Riley. You crack me up. Look forward to our next outing, I shall hit you soon via the other medium.

 

Man that just makes me angry Riley, oh so mad... HAHA Nah, SS is good people, we'd probably just get really f'ing high, toss back brews and lie to each other about how much we ripped earlier that morning.

 

Damn right we would DP.

 

F'ing A

 

Fun ones on Delmarva this afternoon. Loong Szechuan, then shot a couple pix.

 

is that a tration pad on the front of that kids board??? btw yall get so mnay goo waves al the time like i said before all the pictures you post make me what to move there.

 

where the hell is that at you can pm if you dont want to say even though there aint a person on them looks so sick.

 

Still some action yesterday. It was tough to read and pretty closed-out, so I only got a few good ones. Still, can't argue with CH+ warm water long period south swell. Saw some action on the drive this morning, and the wind is good, so I'm headed out in the early PM. Looking forward to more warm water for as long as this lasts!