who here has been surfing this week?

Just had an awesome session in Frisco, NC -- 4-6ft outside sets rolling in rights, very clean and mildly glassy, lots of fun, just one friend and I. Where was everyone else?? It wasn't bigger or better at the groins or any east-facing beach.. am I missing something? Was great to surf there alone.

 

We were talking about this in in the water yesterday (after school/work hours), while clean waist - chest high waves were rolling in 65 degree water and 70 degree sunshine and two of us were out. It seems like crowds come in cycles, especially in spots where 15 people can make an unbearable crowd, in a town where people gravitate to maybe three spots. 10 years ago, same conditions there would have been 20 heads in the water.

Some seasons/years, 15 minutes after school is out there are two dozen heads in the water, other years they all doing something else, and they seem to travel in packs. IDK.....When does Blue Crush 4 come out?

 

I know what/where you're talking about, too. It's nice in MD there's miles of coastline to spread out and find your own spot.. not sure why some cluster up in a few standard spots.. oh well. I have my own in OC.

Maybe I got the OBX lifestyle wrong.. it's been 8 years since I've been here () but I kinda assumed that if it was good and big at a certain-facing beach then all the boys would be there.. maybe there are less coastline dwellers than I presumed. .. or maybe it was a sharky-kinda area, and we were just too ignorant to not paddle out there. .. saw several longboarders on some east-facing beaches, I guess we just have different riding styles.

 

hey your not so bad yourself old man. That spider man turn i saw you do that one day at the jetty completely defied the laws of physics, and we were trading peaks all day when the wind finally calmed down and the Seattle Kooks were out in full force during that 3 day run of swell we had post fire season. Come visit and shred The right coast sometime, or better yet just wait until next year when i return because with all due respect to my roots, "long period" east coast swell of 11 seconds doesn't appeal to me much anymore, and what most people froth about over here most born and raised westcoasters wouldn't consider surfable. Maybe this fall and winter will change my mind. Maybe its why im happy I grew up here and happier I left.


Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to get any pictures of that swell I caught down in the Pacific Northwest's version of Indo. Probably because even if i did have a photographer there, the locals would have executed him Iranian style and shoved his camera deep into my colon post session.

However, that text exchange we had sums it up


Me:
"Dude that last wave.... a re-run of pure luck and fate everplaying in my mind. Watching the blob come, morphing into a 20 foot pit, paddle battling an old shredder, going for it off the cliff, 5-foot one footed air drop, seeing the rocks i thought i was headed for right in front of my face, and getting spit out of a tube into a 20 foot face instead? Dude i feel like I got away with murder. Theres another reality somewhere in space time with my mangled corpse rattled on the barnacle crusted tip of that point, but i dodged it and here i sit high and dry but itching from bed bugs instead"

You: "Sounds like a great swellinfo thread. Seriously I cant even imagine what 20 feet there would look like"

 

Me: " Its like a ****ing warzone where everytime you make a charge into no-man's land out of your trench and stab a Nazi in the face, Carmen Electra is waiting in their foxhole to give you a blowjob"

^THIS is as good as the PNW gets

 

Yup, let's just say the week ended on a positive note.

Thanks for the props...and making me paddle into a blinding fog. Turned out to be a heckuva session.

Keep your fingers crossed for Oregon next year, I've got a gut feeling about it...peace & waves dawg

 

yea gold beach might be the sharkiest place on the oregon coast, but i found some hidden gems downthere

 

Wholey crap it was fun today! A nice combo swell was pushing into my little offshore corner. The tide was high and it was super-rampy on the sets. Still plenty warm for skinning it. Right in the middle was perfect. No A-frames, but lefts and rights swept in depending on the refraction, backwash, and angle.

Rights were steep, throwing, and makable. The inside threw up a ramp perfect for rollos, but too shallow for anything else.

Lefts were not quite as good as they have been, the refraction off the seawall was not angled quite right, but occasionally you'd get one warping in with a chest-hi in-and-out barrel finishing up on the sand.

Fun fun fun. Can't wait for tomorrow!

 

Didn't catch this earlier but man that is Frikkin STOKE!
I WANT THAT NOW! Gave me the goose bumps dude!

 

Scored the VAN today dude...it's ON, muthafvckah!!!! I'll send ya some pix soon.

BTW...The G****s was going off yesterday.

 

Thanks for the visual! Keep shredding the gnar and sending us mere mortals more epic posts!

We went out on a boat today in search of rideable waves in the lee during VOS onshores. Not quite big enough to send surge to secret spot. Too bad we didn't bring fishing gear along, the water, it's alive. Tomorrow is another day!

 

duuuuuuuude! nice, i bet groins has been fun. im pissed im back in the flatness but i had a good run

 

I missed you by a day. Caught some leftover barely rideable stuff in Frisco on Thursday. Surfed again Saturday afternoon, same place. It was cleaner and bigger. Lots of baitfish activity making me a little nervous, but never saw the larger fish scattering.

 

Smaller, more inconsistent, but cleaner today. Got a sick in-and-out on the refraction. Just hung there in the barrel right where it jacks from WH to CH for a second or two, then jetted out before the whole thing blew up. Wave of the week right there. Nice.

Still plenty warm to skin it. Weird weird water.

 

consistently bumping speed, i see? very nice

 

I forgot to mention, trunks and a vest, which is my minimum, even in summer.

 

Yeah, it's cool now. I just head down to the "gym", strip down and paddle out for an hour, prentending I'm in Hawaii. But in a month it'll be butt-ass cold and I'll be re-thinking these waist-high+ refraction sessions when it means strapping up and down in rubber.

El Nino better bring back some sand to the real gym. Right now it only works on a super negative tide, and the south swell train is about to shut down, meaning nothing for the rest of the winter.

 

SI said it was supposed to be HH on monday w/ occasional OH and fair conditions...wrong! It was closer to DOH - giant thumping lumps and bumps of pacific power with onshore flow.

Only one guy out, but I paddle out anyhow, way down from him...next thing I know, he's right next to me. I catch a giant lump and the fvcking dork drops in on me, without ever looking. Bounced around out there, waveless, for what seemed hours. Then, got hit by a massive wall of whitewater that dragged me all the way inside (can't remember that ever happening to me), so I just said fvck it and left. Not even going to consider that drop-in a wave, so I got skunked...don't remember that ever happening to me, either.

caught a few messy insiders yesterday, but, sucks because oct is usually one of our better months.

 

Did you throw the dudes gear into the water??

 

nah, he was a dork (we have a lot of guys here that can catch a wave...but, once up, have zero coordination or style), but just the fact he managed to paddle out through that incessant whitewater earned him a little respect