Wasn't going to respond to this treade out of embarrassment... This is my longest dry spell ever.... haven't been in the water since Labor Day. Finally, getting out this weekend. When I'm at the water I try to surf everyday, be it ankle slappers or victory at sea. Life has a way of getting in the way... Best time to surf and fish happens to be my busiest time of the year. How often do I need to surf? As often as I can!!! When I'm not surfing, and have some time, I'm watching the cams, mind surfing. I find myself looking at my tide watch and thinking about what break is working. Got things worked out so that in 3 years I'll be a professional beach bum. Hope you all get some waves!
All surfers have a problem. We'd be much better people if we didn't surf. To avoid neurosis: An hour-ish session, 3 days a week. To be content: An hour-ish session, 5 days a week. To be happy: 3-4 hours a day, 6-7 days a week. To be enraptured: Indo boat trip, 11 hours a day, 10 days straight. This can be followed by up to a week of not surfing before the next boat trip. I can get through the occasional week of flatness without freaking out.
I'm ditching work this afternoon to get out in the water for sanity reasons. Been a couple of weeks and I'm feeling all twitchy stabby.
I like two sessions a week for the workout, not because I need it to be happy. The past month or two has been very inconsistent and those two sessions a week have been mostly in waves waist high or smaller. I would rather surf two hours in mediocre waves than go for a run (I realize the two aren't equivalent) and feel like it keeps me in surf shape for the next decent swell. The part of not surfing that I hate (and try to avoid like the plague) is pointlessly obsessing about surfing, bringing gear with me to work knowing there probably wont be waves, getting hopes up and going after or before work knowing full well how crappy its going to be. When this sort of pointless obsessing starts affecting the rest of my day...distracted at work...come home cranky and miserable....that really pisses me off...not the missing surf part.
Need... I don't need anything except for some pineapple and pusssssy... Want... well I want to be able to surf good waves 3 times a week but I'm in jersey I'll be lucky if I get 3 days throughout the month that are good
Hopefully this little bump should serve up some fun stuff in the mid Atlantic area I've been jonesin to get out.... I wonder if the booties are needed yet
I surfed Monday after work, and felt like low 60s which for me is not bootie temps....the other guy who was out was wearing boots. Its getting close!
No need to be embarrassed. We're all friends here I have gone long spells without surf, finding refuge in debauchery in New Orleans, or hiking, kayaking and horseback riding in the Smokeys, both due to business assignments. When I was in Montgomery, AL we used to drive to Panama City Beach, yes, PCB, to get waves on weekends. Even a once a month road trip feeds the soul.
I was like this when I lived in the valley and had to get up at 4AM, then drive 30 mins just to get f-ing skunked and then go to work all tired and pissed off. Or I'd cut out early to go surfing during winter, get stuck in traffic, and not make it to the water until there were only 15 minutes of light left. I still remember sitting on the freeway with the sun beating down on me, then squinting into the semi-darkness when I finally got there, with the channel markers flashing red in the dusk. Or I'd slip-and-slide through too many inches of snow and paddle into the teeth of a NE'er for some lonely crappy waves with just waaay too much wind to be any fun at all, and realize that I had just blown a lot of time to paddle out in a crazy storm and that I wasn't going to get anything decent. Those days sucked so bad. Now it takes me 6 whole minutes from work to water (add a few more if I need to wettie) if I decide I want to paddle out. It's a wonderful feeling, knowing you can let it go today and hit it tomorrow. I did that last Wednesday when the wind was sorta sideshore and I'd already got it good Monday and Tuesday. Then Thursday it was onshore all day and I started feeling a little antsy. Then Friday was calm, warm and chest-hi and I got my fix. This week looks to be solid all week and I'm feeling good.
I think 4 days a week of surfing is optimum for me. Any more and my old bones protest, and no stuff gets done around the house, at work etc. To be young and unemployed again! That was the life. (Just a deal once in a while to keep things moving).
I don't get all u people who claim to "surf everyday"...how is that possible when theres no swell?shyt I wish I could surf everyday,life would be a lot better.unless u guys got some killer sandbars that a 1ft windswell creates waves idk. for example where I live and surf,anything under 3 ft isn't surfable,just shorebreak dumping on dry sand.it gets over 3 ft,then it forms a bar and starts to break right. I honestly do not know when was the last time I surfed.wish I would've went to ny for that jaoquin swell.i just try to catch every swell or every other swell,we need swell in this part of jersey to get waves.sometimes I get on it,other times I'm working or busy.but yea life would be a lot cooler if I could atleast surf once a week,but that wont happen unless I move to cali
if its slightly over knee high and higher...and clean, Iam surfing...dont surf in real sloppy conditions anymore, regardless of size...too old for that chit. Average, surf 2 to 3 times a week....still can go over a week without getting wet...and then there are times when i can go out everyday for a week plus....then I start getting a tad grumpy. Surfed all afternoon Sunday and looks like Thursday is gonna be real good and Friday should be some surf too. That would be at least 3x this week....3x a week=happy