10 things you remember about the good old days

Veracity. You mentioned John Gross from Surf Unlimited. He's an old chum of mine. He used to walk up to the beach from his apartment above the shop, check the waves, put his foot in the water to get the water temp, then post his report. He moved to Arizona chasing a piece of a$$. He'd let us thaw out in his garage after a winter session.
30 years ago. I remember waking up on a dirty damp mattress with a big heffer wrapped around me. The smell of stale beer, sex, motorcycle grease, and blood (mine and someone else's). At least a dozen other guys and their women laying about on the cold floor of someone's house who I didn't even know. Get up, look outside. A dozen or so choppers strewn across the front lawn. Out the door I go. "Where you going?" asks the fatty. "Surfing" replies Chavez. She looks at me like I have 3 heads.
I fire up the HD and I'm outta there. Back to South Seaville to grab my pick-up and my board. My head hurts from the booze and the fists that hit it last night even though I can't remember what started the fight or why I was even involved. An insult? A women involved? Probably both.
On the beach. Chilly. One to two foot slop. The first duck dive removes most of last night's pain and stench. The first ride removes the rest.

 

For the usual insanities, please read anything you wish in the post above.
Coo Coo! Coo Coo!

 

o barry

 

o barry you gotta lighten up a bit o barry

 

That was good...the night of cycles and sex and then waking to go surf...

Yeah, I miss John's report. Chavez please have him call me each morning and tell him just to make-up a report.

That dude was on spot on his reports......trucker got up early too. Had them reports on early....

 

He's a big enough smart ass that he probably would call you every day with the wave report for the Colorado River.

 

That IS me lighting up, dude!!!
kids today!

 

o barry

 

brock was the mark healey of his day.sad most people don't even know who he is,u know he is now a Hollywood stunt double lol,he was in the die hard with the computer hacking shyt.

yea man those santa cruz boys were the illest.even take away all their big wave surfing,they were doing airs a decade before jjf was even born.tubes,crazy shyt..and yea all while on crazy drugs.

archy and fletcher...another great duo.fletcher beat tom curren at pipe while high on lsd lol,and he beat slater at trestles after smoking an oz while waiting for his heat....so yea.............

 

oh yea forgot to add a part about brock...and the guys before his time

these sniggers paddled out without safety vests,without leashes prior to the brock scene,had to swim in at 30ft waimai,lol just getting through that shorebreak is insane.

u know brock,slater,and shane dorian were like best friends back in those days.shane was always bummed how slater was better than him,thats what led him to do the big wave thing.those guys,shane,kelly,brock were surfing huge waves way before surfline and all that bs.even witnessed their boy Donnie soloman from ca die there after getting caught in the lip on a clean up set.

 

1. BB bombers
2. Surfing the carousel and sea watch (ocmd)
3. Changing out of my wetsuit on people's balconys
4. Surfing 8th Street and the wedge (ocmd)
5. The anticipation of crossing the dune to see what the surf looked like
6. Free wax

 

anybody else use to draw a black dot on paper and use a magnifying glass to start a fire?kid stuff...don't think kids do that anymore

 

Jeff Crawford - the 1st East Coast Pipe Master Champ.

**** Catri - The Godfather of EC surfing

MTB Surfboards (RIP Big Mike)

Greg Lohr and his 1st far out epoxy boards that would literally explode if you left it in your car in the summer heat.

Jeff Jarrell - 350 lbs of bad attitude, could switch stance in max Reef Road, self proclaimed Mayor of Singer Island (RIP uncle JJ)

Mike Porpose, Gary Propper, and the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle crew (Carrot Top can shred)

Randall from ....Lost (not sooooo far back, but still)

John Parton from Fox surfboards....he's baaaack

Smitty from Nomad....still alive....like a fan whose blade keeps spinning even though the power is turned off.