I think we would all like to surf alone after all it is a individual sport and you can play it by your own rules but the ocean has it's own set of rules and doesn't play fair. I've surfed some sketchie places alone without anyone out. Always worth it. I guess as you get older you think more about the what-if's and realize the fragile balance of life and death. A few 10 ft screaming, wax slipping, pearling, drop-ins are definitely a wave junkies rush.
I surf alone a lot... as much as I can. Even traveling. Not that I prefer it... a light, positive crowd is ok by me. It's just that I hate not going on a wave because somebody else has priority. I much prefer not going on a wave to give it away. I guess when it comes down to it my surfing self is pretty... selfish. Surfing with a good friend is fun, though... but in a different way.
LB, you seem to be surf starved, when you get plenty it is a blessing to give waves away. When someone comes back and they have a wild look in their eye and thank you, its the bees knees. good ones coming your way sometimes its hard to find someone to surf with you when you are looking to do something crazy like surf Waimea at night under the light of a glowstick . http://www.cnn.com/2015/11/01/us/hawaii-surfer-alec-cooke/
Anytime I am out, I tend to look over my shoulder at whoever is up and riding unless I got one coming to me. If i see them take a spill... I typically watch just to make sure they pop up alright. Even if your not my buddy... if I can see you, I got your back.
Was really baffled when I read that he regularly did that. Surfing Waimea at night by the light of a glow stick is ridiculous to me.
His hate for crowds is the reason he ended up dead prematurely, then Why else would anyone go out at night, if, if it is in fact true he did so. Us older guys ( I am 64) dislike crowds, IMHO, much more than the younger surfers. Why? Because we surfed when there were little to no crowds. Example, I surfed Marias, Rincon PR, mid 1960s, had the place all to myself (with 2 friends) for a solid week....during Xmas vacation. Now if you visit there, there are 100 persons all vying for the same wave. just opinion, of course....
I remember the first time I heard of Ace Cool. He was the Laird of his day. It was in Surfer mag in the 70's early 80s. He had a helicopter drop him off keanae point on a giant day. Unfortunately they put him off too far inside, and he ate deep dark doo. He did bring a small breathing apparatus.
I hate being responsible for another moron, so I don't encourage anyone to come surf with me. I do prefer close proximity to a lifeguard, or at least a beach service guy with a cell phone in case of a shark bite. But I still go out alone in sketchy bait filled conditions. I still surf in a crowded line up if it is the only place working. I'd rather surf with a couple competent buddies, but then we sometimes end up on the same peak at the same time. Then we take turns throwing each others stuff in the water during lulls.
