who here has been surfing this week?

looks like a bigger
version of the wave that tweaked my knee

 

So true dude. Florida sux

No wetsuit either!

 

Surfed for about an hour this morning before work on high tide, found a nice sandbar that was working. Chest / Shoulder High, maybe a plus set here and there. Semi bumpy / clean. Nice morning light wind, started off with some rain but cleared up.

It was an error free morning until my last wave when I decided to ride one in and go home / work. Caught the wave a little late, got to my feet, wall started to form, took off racing down the line to the left, it started to shut down so I cut back to the right and it went on for another 20-30 yards and as i'm getting to the inside bar it jacks up and starts to close out so I went for the eject button and tried launching myself over the back of the wave which normally works but today I misjudged it and ended up smacking the lip on my back / shoulder and it popped my shoulder out AGAIN.

For those who don't know, I dislocated it back in April in PR, same one. It's on ongoing problem. I had no issues since then and didn't think it would happen today but all it takes is a little bit of force in the wrong direction and it pops out rather easily. Been dealing with this crap for years. Normally I can pop it back in on my own with a little patience and ability to fight through the pain. Last time I wasn't able to though and I had to deal with the Puerto Rican ER, which I don't wish on anybody.

So, there I was in the impact zone holding onto my board with one arm taking sets on the head trying to get to shore. Finally made it, thought to myself, here we go again, wife is going to be stoked! Bet she'll be excited about another trip to the ER so soon! HAHA I carried my board to the vehicle while trying to maneuver my shoulder back in the socket but it wasn't going.

My thoughts were get this thing back in and no harm no foul. Or I can drive home and have my wife take me to the ER. In desperation I leaned over hanging my arm toward the ground and just let it hang there for a sec with no tension in my shoulder, then grabbed my forearm with my other hand and pulled down until I felt it POP! And... we're back! Phew, no ER for me today, thank you jeebus! Should be back in the water tomorrow. It's a little stiff but a little Aleeve and i'm good. Great wave though, man was that fun!

 

that sucks

 

It does, but what can you do? Luckily I've done it so many times that I don't panic when it happens in the water. My sense of urgency to get out of the water is there, and only being able to paddle with one arm and hang onto the board with one hand really sucks, but you find a way to make it in, instincts take over I guess.

 

define "impact zone" where abouts were u?

 

I just finished my ride from the outside so I was sitting on the inside bar where the waves were breaking on top of me, I was holding on to my board getting pushed in. Not a big deal, just painful and not fun being down an arm. It was my LB too so it takes a bit more to hold onto while getting pounded. I was just trying to prevent further injury hopeing that it wasn't too far out of the socket like last time, so I was being cautious not to let it get rag dolled while it was hanging out. Luckily I made it in without any further damage.

 

Not big but fun this morning in monmouth county before south wind killed it. The size was bigger than forecasted. I would say steady waist high with some chest+ sneaker sets. Light to no wind makes easy takeoffs and rippable faces.

 

Went out today, 3 ft at best, but had a few good rides. Water 50*F, air 37*F.
However, I did have my leash properly tied to my board!!

 

I had a similar wave last Friday night dusk patrol. Was going down the line .. nothing daunting, just casually surfing a waist high face, somewhat soft, and then the wave surprised me and jacked up (I had been on another peak during the sesh up until this point). It became a 2nd drop (or re-entry), so I had to get way back and then "make the drop" (it was close to a "pearl jam") and hit a hard bottom turn around a close out section.

Glad you were to get your shoulder back in position. ERs (thank goodness for them), are a drag.

 

Thanks bud, yeah I didn't think anything of the wave other than I was having fun and happy I was riding one in to end my session. I need to work on my dismount I guess HAHA

 

Yea, it's a bummer, low bombed too late for us. Maybe some throwback swell tomorrow. Another swell for the euros.

Missed you Barry from the old NESurf days.

 

Fun and rippable ones coming through this afternoon. Digging El Nino a LOT.





Weapon of choice for these fluffy waves:

 

O man i want one of those!! Looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for the pics mitch.

I went out yesterday after work for an hour in knee high thigh at best perfectly clean though. A soul cleansing sesh.

 

Sorry to hear that man. Glad to hear it sounds like you're ok though.

The only good thing about my sh*tty shoulder is when it does pop out it goes back in pretty easy.

Good luck amigo.

 

That looks so fun. Just got to LBI. Hopefully some of that in the am!

 

Thanks dude, been popping my shoulders in and out for almost 20 years, nothing I can do except do work outs to strengthen the muscles around them but that only does so much. Trying to avoid any type of shoulder surgery if I can help it. Shoulders aren't something you can just fix easily like a lot of other things. Many times the shoulder is never the same again, from what I have gathered from others and from doctors. I tore my labrum on my other shoulder years ago and avoided surgery and after a few years it's back to 100% I would say.

 

nesurf.co was fun, wan't it?? Then some strange California people bought it and they decided that having nobody visit their site was the way to sell product??!!?? Maybe that is why California is as broke as it is......

 

Love these lows that spin up well south of Nova Scotia....NE fetch pointed right back at the Mid Atlantic. 4 feet at 11 seconds of ENE swell this morning at the buoy off Delaware.

 

I have a love/hate relationship with this thread...plus been working too much. Thanks for the pics my man...living vicariously through you at this point!