what would u do?

its okay, he's local.

 

... if you were asked to give up your dreams for freedom?

[video=youtube;BVkTmnJkAN8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVkTmnJkAN8[/video]

 

nothing different. But talk about being comfortable there, niether him nor the ski looked like they were in a panic

 

found a pic of his board post incident:

 

I thought that was the vid of EMass taking his non-surfing buddy out for the first time.

 

Oh man hope he had a wetsuite on...I think the guy handled it well and looked for the biggest rock. I guess he could have tried to swim away from the jetty quicker but probably didn't know what was happening at the time

Happen to me once - it was in nj tho on a rock jetty. Not as bad but still crazy. It was low tide and about 8 ft and really shallow at the end of the jetty. Breaking about 40 ft in front of the jetty. Paddled out along the jetty and lost my board on a duck dive at the tip- that was the end of it. Was swept in front of the jetty- my properly tied leash got stuck in rocks under water- thus holding me down and underwater. Could only get air between waves. Didn't know what to do- but a guy saw what was happening and yelled "you quick release" and that reminded me to pull the tap on my leash on the ankle. Then climbed up the jetty... Was happy I had my wetsuite and gloves on- would have been all cut up as well if not.

 

i got washed clean over the dock at monahans one time into the channel without a scratch. felt something like that i guess

 

That's my worst nightmare. It has never happened to me, but it's my biggest fear... which is probably why it's never happened to me!

 

pengiuns in antarctica climb rocky shores at high seas on the daily, wilderness channel. and they dont even have hands. nor can fly. weird bird all together. btw did you know they dont have fur?

 

Yeah they have feathers. Kiwi birds do too, they aren't actually kiwis

 

wtf happened here smh

 

Of course not, kiwis don't fly. Have fur though

 

Doesn't look like the best place to surf. The wave he dropped into def had some size, but it broke and that was it. Why did he drop in going left and then turn into the breaking lip?

 

slab, looking for barrel

 

Clearly, he applied a thick coating of whale jiz to his entire suit. The rocks would have ripped him apart if he didn't.

 

I watched it a few more times. The right turns to nothing. I think if he would have kept going left he would have cleared the rocks. He cuts back directly under the lip. Oh well, either way he got worked

 

Happened to me at Sandy Hook NJ 1st jetty back in the late 70s. Hurricane surf and lost it before clearing the seawall. Was getting pummeled at the base of the wall trying to time a wave to throw me up on the rocks. Finally a wave broke that i dove under, next one didnt break but just kinda swelled up with the backwash from the previous wave. Deposited me like a mother puts a baby in its crib right on top of a flat rock. I scrambled up the rocks to the concrete path on top. Just sat there panting like a dog for a few minutes before I made the walk around to the jetty and jumped back in. It was much scarier than it sounds.

 

Yup...and whys he tryina back door in the first place when it's obviously pretty mushy?