Definitely, I got lots stored in the memory banks but after a while they start to run together, pics can bring you back to a moment in time for sure.
Oh Barry I "flippered" out at pools when it was firing tide high...mo swell mo urchins I always saw more of them between indicators and dogmans
Yup Dogmans (lower Dogmans) has certainly got them as well. But I remember lots of them at Pools as a kid. Bck then nobody bothered to surf either of the Dogmans; we did not need to. Nobody knew Rincon or Marias really existed. Just a few residents/locals. In fact, you know where Calypso Bar is at Marias?? There used to be a railroad track that went right through where that establishment is; it went right down to The Lighthouse area. It was used to rail out the sugarcane harvest from the fields overlooking Marias, etc. That was way back; I think the rails came out of there late 50s. The paved road going down from the top of the hill to Pools....it used to be sand when I first saw that place. That was Jurassic, man.
Hey spickles, did you see me the day you posted this? Sounds like you were in the cove. I was up top at pipe floating in f***ing circles until around 9. Think I was the only booger out. Long hair, gray board. Say hi if you see me. Just shout "Wazzup speed bump?" to every random booger until you get me. LOL. Or maybe you were up north a bit? The town break was def. up to a few feet OH to DOH last Friday morning, and headed up fo sho. Maybe it was smaller down by the pier? Swell didn't last long, though. Looked like it was down to around HH by Saturday Morning. I'll probably be back there Friday at dawn. Should be bombing. I don't take photos after surfing, only if I came down without my car or if I look like a tourist with no gear. I don't like making phone calls until I'm well away from the break. Caution borne of the olden days.
This is a profound concept, seeing with the minds eye, cultivating feeling. Learning tai chi, my instructor would not let me do it in front of a mirror, or mimic his motions. He said that was learning dance. He taught me to cultivate correct feeling which generates correct motion. Thus energy flows. I think what you are referring to is the same thing on a board on a wave. Feeling and interpreting energy and acting accordingly. It's real.
Bro. I'm in my 4th year of surfing. I've surfed in all 5 corners of this country plus Central America. Never said I did it very well, but I've surfed in up to 23s period more than twice, more Nor'easters than I can count, and multiple cane swells. Again, not saying I'm shreddin cheddah out there, but I'm safe and effective now and know my way around new breaks. I'm not surfing DOH. 10' is the tallest I've ever charged and nailed the drop on. I don't even really like much OH. Sooo...what exactly are you having trouble believing, that I forgot my leash prior to a sesh or that I flipped my board upside down as to not purposely de-fin my stick on the reef? Woahhhhh RADICAL concepts bro. Let me know when you can fit either of those enigmas wrapped in Salt Lyfe towels into your primitive brain. Bro. We are talking about WIDE OPEN, WELL KNOWN breaks up the west coast that are break after break after break as you drive north or south. Who are you kidding doggy? I use the asterisks when naming breaks just to rip on you. What are you, 5'6 with a hipster beard? You fraid of getting beat up? I show up to a break, don't drop in on anyone, do my thing and leave stoked. If someone steps to me or acts like that ain't my American freedom, well, they're in for an encounter and an attitude adjustment. I've seen next to no aggro in OC/SD and zero aggro ever north of LA. I walked out to the Point in OR from the Cove and saw nary a rock flying at my head. Localism can eat a dikkkk. The cats that pull localist stunts are the same type that wouldn't ever throw down solo in a fight. Good luck to them if they involve me in they antics. No, I won't soon be shouting out to a booger, let alone your arse. On a lighter note, yeah, it's been absolutely dope lately and I'm hitting it on Thursday for sure. Feeling the points way more than the BB's. The drift has been asinine. Not sure I have the time to charge on Friday and by the looks of it, would need to find a protected spot if I were to. Lots of wind accompanying that big pulse. Saturday, I'll be up north in the bay and will probably look to hit it.
You've been doing this for 4 whole years?? You're a veteran fo sho. You clearly don't need my advice. Only aggro kooks from the valley throw down against each other in the **r*** parking lot on a 2' summer swell these days. Good for laughs. I used to chase snakes out of the water back when I was young and dumb, and there weren't yupsters everywhere calling the cops if you so much as stinkeye. Hell, I used to expect a fight in town if I boogered anywhere except *t*b**s. Nowadays you've got SUPs, goat boats, boogers, you-name-it. Once upon a time, drive-in's got their tires slashed and windows waxed yakking on the phone, taking photos, sexting their buddies. You can't patch a slice through the sidewall, so there goes $80+ and a couple of hours. Does it still happen? Well there's two tire shops and one surf shop at the corner of California and Thompson. You do the math. THAT'S why I don't pull out the cell near my car when gear is visible. You make yourself a marked man with val plates, then somebody messes with your chit each time you come to surf and there's f--kall you can do about it. Yeah, that's the coward's way, but there's plenty of cowards among the locals in the world. I will tell you to shut off your phone at a spot like *r**g*, but I will not throw your chit in the water like a pu**y. Somebody will, though, I'm just warning you to save you money and grief. And I don't name spots on the internet because of google. There's enough barneys in the water already what's the need to attract any more? Saturday up north will be huge VAS. Good luck. Thursday should be good. Drift was light and weird in town last Friday, it was headed south to north, which made no sense at all. I've been hitting a beachie in south county that's been good, but you can't surf it.
Soooo both of you are hardcore central Cali lokals lol . Yeah name dropping on a east coast surf forum is going to cause breaks to over flow.... Good one. Hey everyone lets go surf steamer lane whops.... How about willow creek ..... Whops
Wow....all you guys argue about imbecilities. "Wah, wah, wah....don't surf where I surf...wah, wah, wah" If you haven't noticed yet, Surfline, SURFER mag etc, is naming AND picturing as many surf spots as possible; even those you try to hide. I bet you all have subscriptions and are members!! And look at all the verbiage you all waste. hahahahaha!!
This is why I like Barry he's right sometimes, I once got Surfline membership for a year had a good deal and never got it again.. Found swellinfo and thought it was better Surfline over exaggerates.
O Barry Since the entire EC is just one giant sandbar about a million miles from the continental shelf I wouldn't expect you d-canoes to understand. Knee-high dribblers at 38th street are pretty much the same as knee-high dribblers at S-turns.
Remember that time Emass and Atantic0 went on a date? That was awesome. Emass (zz), next year you'll be dropping into 80 footers from a helicopter at Nazare. 2 years from then you'll be dropping into 100 footers at Egypt after somehow transitioning from a wingsuit to a surfboard. And you know what, we'll all totally believe you. We don't need pics of your 200 skateboards, 500 surfboards, and endless DOH barrels. We know its all true. Damn son. What a 4 years its been for you. Never-surfed-a-day east coast summer surfer, to lowers local dropping knowledge on us about DOH barrel riding in a blink of an eye. And the crazy thing is that you are definitely not pretending. ITS ALL REAL. THE STORIES ARE ALL REAL.
oh speed bump hes from PR where they have some sick breaks and size you wouldn't drag your dic in due to the fact the fish will nibble on your stick. might even snag it on some coral on the surface. do you think barry was all aggro trying to protect and regulate his breaks???naw... its def a kali kook gang mentality aka cant surf and cant fight solo/ never get pusc to release stress so they're sexually frustrated as well...omg ohhhh speeed bump can you teach me aboot how to be a egocentric lokal dooshbag?? i really want to know how you know??? i will feel more like a man but with the attitude of a 10 year old that cant share... can you help seed bumper plzzzi beg you... comeee onnn i wanna learn from a hardcore kali lokal...you`re super cool maybe one day i can grow up to be like youse..hey when i come out there can i take you out for some ice cream maybe that will calm your frustration... ohh and dont be mad that you cant surf s-turns its super cool and only the cool kats can surf there sorry you wernt cool enough to catch waves, maybe if you let me talk to them next time i can vogue for your kali regulator status...
I live on the east coast and only surf when there are waves to surf therefore I'm a d canoe and inferior in the surf world. K.
Glad you understand, Hay. You are lower than the pond scum who surf the great lakes. What sort of pansy wears 5 mil and surfs in a snowstorm? Same goes for anyone in the PNW. The only real surfers live between Pt. Conception and TJ. Sandblister, you can buy me ice cream any time you like and I'll let you borrow my phone so you can youtube how to douche. Just don't stand near my whip.