Soul surfing, rippa shredda, proneness, big wave charging, sandbar wadingnonswimmer

surf, drink beer, get laid, surf, die.

 

punk rock, dawn patrols, frozen limbs, no money.

closed out.

 

I like a board about as tall as me. 6'0 thruster set up if its mid range-big (above 6 feet and hollow)

I got a twinzer hynson fish thats 5-8 for smaller than that, but ive taken it out in 10 foot faces and its super fast.

I like a solid point break slab i can ride for a while over a 2 second barrel, but i love barrels. I just like to have a wave I can run down the line with and play with otherwise it doesn't feel like surfing just hanging on and waiting to see if you came out of a drop.

I prefer long sloping turns and getting in the pocket to make a barrel or speedline opposed to hard top-bottom jabby surfing, but again it all depends on the conditions.

Most of all I love a good frontside indy grab launch as high as physics and the waves allow as long as your not blowing a wave because of it.

 

My parents

 

I like backside rail grab drops (goin left) and frontside tweaked stale fish airs off punchy sections on performance shortboards, long wrapping cutties and floaters on the 5'6 twin fish, cheater five head dips, spinners and cross stepping on logs. Nothin is better than coming out of a layback. Blowing fins to drift your tail and coming around fakie is cool, and anyone who can 180 chop hop to revert is cool beans in my book. Backdooring is cool if it works, and getting in early and taking a high line then dropping for a barrel is even cooler.Doggy dooring is only cool when the close out blows spray and you put your hands and arms out to cover your face. Pulling in to shorebreak is fun especially on a beater but only if people are watching so you can scare them by playing dead. Mason ho lookbacks are ill. Claiming sux. Brazilians can be good, but the Brazilian storm hogwash makes me nanners. Ride a boogie board sometimes cos it's cool. Snapping boards is bad a$$ if it is big and you had it comin, putting your foot through or retiring it because of dings is lame. Skimboarding is cool too. Dave kalama flies safety in a helicopter and that is bad a$$ too. Do your thang, just make your thang work for you

 

1. yes.
2. both
3. both
4. both
5. both
6. everything

 

He got it from Sunny

 

I like a swift drop under the lip into a quick easy barrell racing the lip, then maybe a deep section so I can do a nice figure 8 round house and position for a nice run at an inside steep section for a few backside hacks, then a pigdog rail grab to an inside shorey tube, before getting spit out into a soft shoulder in front of a few euro models paddling out in the channel hooting. On my 6'6" Orion swallow tail wave slayer. Then I wake up.

 

He looks back and snarls as he destroys the lip on his frontside. Patented. Power. Aggression. Sunny G.

 

It's all about the whale jiz.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^dis

 

On the takeoff, I love the feeling of fading left, then snapping the bottom turn right (frontside for me) and trying to get under the hook, or pumping fast for the high line. Or setting up a nice long wall to walk the nose. And I've been known to throw a coffin on a giant set wave every once and a while, just to keep the young kids alert. Handstands in the summertime, and SUP w/ hottie on the tip