Soul surfing, rippa shredda, proneness, big wave charging, sandbar wadingnonswimmer

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Not really sure what you call my "style" if you can call it that, but my surfing depends on my mood and the type of waves and equipment being used that day, as well as how much herb I've burned or may not have burned, and if I've had any Jameson or Jack on the Rocks, not typically but maybe for a sunset session on the weekend. Do not try this at home kids, it's bad, bad I tell ya.

I have days where i'm not taking it seriously at all and I just go for a leisure paddle with catching a few along the way, other days i'm hungry and am attacking the waves with some level of aggression. If i'm in a depressed state of mind from life's struggles, I generally don't surf too well, too much in the head floating around, tend to let that hinder my sessions, but I always come out of the water feeling a little better.

If i'm in a neutral state of mind, meaning not in a bad mood but not particularly in a great mood either, I tend to have good productive sessions and I come away stoked and in a great mood and that can last several days.

If I'm already in a great mood then I typically am out there having a blast because my mind is right and nothing is getting in my way. It's never the oceans fault for a bad session, it's always me. So mind control is the struggle within and what allows me to be fulfilled by this crazy activity that brings us all so much joy, or it's what prevents me from achieving or accomplishing things that I know i'm capable of (in the water).

Can't rely on surfing alone for happiness, happiness comes from within, and it inspires great surfing, at least for me. Soul surfer? IDK, I just surf for me, to keep me balanced, to live with some sort of purpose, connect with the earth and "god", it's creatures, and the environment around me. I do it because I look around and I see so many people just waiting to die rather than trying to live.

Surfing is an expression of life to me, it's what makes me feel alive at least. Not the only thing, but it's one of the best feelings in the world when dropping into a powerful wave and getting that acceleration that feels like you're flying and then having complete control to turn and do whatever the heart desires at that moment in time, which feels like a long time but is only just a few seconds, but that feeling, it's embedded in the mind, the heart, the soul, and is something many people who are just waiting to die, will never experience. How sad is that?

 

As far as actual "style", when i'm on my short board, i'm trying to get the deepest bottom turn possible, pushing hard off the bottom, laying out, hand dragging, looking down the line and up the face of the wave, loading up for a big snap off the top when I get launched out of my bottom turn, after that i'm either looking to do the same thing or I might start racing the wall or trying to get some shade if it's possible. Getting speed and laying it on rail feels really good, disengaging the fins and reconnecting also a sweet feeling. Getting locked into the pocket feels effortless and amazing.

On the LB, I tend to be shortboard minded and sometimes have to dial it back some and let the board do the work. Finesse is something I think i'm still working on, so for now I just plow forward and attack the wave for speed and milking the section with a nose ride, I try and keep it alive through the reform and all the way to the sand a lot. I like trying to get vertical and then hitting the lip with a top turn and rebound back into the pocket somehow and keep down the line. Nothing better than having what I call a "long board heaven" session, when the waves are peeling perfectly and going on forever. Getting that rhythm and just gliding and throwing that big board around is so much fun. It's what I need a lot of times to get back in my groove.

 

On a shortboard I like to surf with power. Whether it's a groveler, a fish, or a hpsb, hard turns and barrels are what I want most out of surfing when the waves are good. Burying a rail on the first turn of a cutback... hitting the lip as hard as I can, as vertical as I can... taking every possible opportunity to get tubed, even if it's only for a fraction of a second. Not into big airs personally, but I think they're sick when done with style.

When it gets BIG, I like barrels and only do turns to get tubed.

When it's small, I like riding the log... particularly noseriding. If it wasn't for noseriding, I wouldn't own a log. Drop knee turns and long laybacks across an open face are fun too, but noseriding is what longboarding is all about for me.

 

^^Can't say it any better than this especially the last 2 paragraphs.

 

am i the only one that loves floaters anymore?

 

Nope, you're not alone Blasters, I love me a solid floater, just don't do them often enough, love dropping back into the pit and cranking another bottom turn, can only think of a handful of times I've pulled that off, but it's a good feeling. How about the sound of the water moving under your board or the sound and feel of your fins slicing through the water and cutting your line out for you, how about that spray that flings off your board / fins as it creates a fan of awesomeness? It gets me hard thinking about it.

For you barrel fanatics, how about that sound the wave makes as it's breaking over your head, that hollow sound like when you blow air across the opening of a glass bottle, the silence that suddenly occurs, then the sound of the lip crashing into the flats, the sound of the wave spray as the tops get ripped off by the offshore wind.

 

Sounds like you have checked everything but shake King Kamehameha's hand

 

what about when you paddle over the back of a big one with heavy off shores and you're sprayed with rain for 6 secs.

 

Yeah man and on a sunny day it creates those little rainbows (so gay sounding HAHA)

 

Jinx!

 

Hey if you don't get the job done right the first time, someone has to get it done right the 2nd time, and I do a good job, all the time.

 

Fu*k 'em just to see that look on their face

Say it out loud
I'm freaky styley and I'm proud!

 

I take whatever the ocean gives me and ride it in search of Satori.

 

Home break offers way more lefts than rights so I actually am more comfortable going backside. One of my favorite moves when the waves have some size is a big round house cutback, smack da lip maybe get a little floater and dropback in the slot. Last time I did a layback on a waist high peeler and I couldn't get back up so I just rode it into oblivion. I laughed about it for awhile and decided to start doing more core excercises.

 

This. Especially the Jack on the rocks.
Oh yeah, I enjoy touching myself while riding my LB on smaller days.

 

Kinky, what ever floats yer boat!

 

I don't touch my junk, just my ass and nipples. Touching my junk would be lewd behavior. I could get charged with public indecency and end up back in the Pokey.
Seriously, what you said originally sums it up for me as well.
I guess my surfing style would be considered old school power when the waves allow it. But I can also glide wit the best of them. Soul Arch Stylee.

 

Right on dude, old school power surfing is a good way to describe it too