The sight of water, especially salty and with a bump, touches something way down deep On that note, didn't some of y'all ever learn how to blow bubbles? How ou get so much agua stuffed up there?
......you surf hard for 3 days straight and the next day, when it goes flat, you walk around like a zombie.
When there's pictures of chicks but you notice the surf/conditions in the background first. When everything you see...berms on the highway, jersey barriers, fences, et al...are waves.
Checking the surf reports and weather forecasts throughout the day and continually trying to figure a way to squeeze in a sesh, even a short one, into a busy schedule. Sand. In the car, your ears, feet, hair, and undercarriage. Ever-present wax spots and sunscreen smears on the car. Always noticing surf racks on other cars. Enjoying a few colds ones to help "medicate" the soreness after a good day(s) of surfing.
You own 6 surfboards but you definitely need another one cause you don't have a bonzer, stinger, asym, alaia.....
How 'bout that fresh wax smell... nothing comes close. i keep a bar in my desk at work just to sniff it a few time a day. i also try to keep several bars in my truck to help the dank wetsuite/bootie smell. and to cover up the festering, always damp floor carpet smell
Funny thing is, with all the time we spend doing our best to predict the surf, if we just didn't do that at all and just went to the beach to check every day we'd probably invest less time doing it that way. I may consider this approach now that I think of it. I mean, I really waste a lot of time doing that. Beach is only 15-20 minutes away, worst case I burn 30-40 minutes a day. I'm sure I do that throughout the day each day on my computer / phone.
I think all surfers play the ole game of if you had to choose one ^ For me though, it's when you go to the doctor and they look in your ears and trip the fu*k out on all the stuff they see.
When you talk to complete strangers on a surf predictin website forum because nobody else loves talking about surfing all the time like other surfers. The wife don't wanna hear it, the dog don't wanna hear it. So what's up guys?