who here has been surfing this week?

What a perfect day to have off today. After some pre dawn big thunderstorms, the ocean was so glassy early morning, and then semi clean with very fun waist high plus, some bigger, some smaller...and the water warmed up to @72, bright sunshine, very light offshore breezes, air got up to 78. Gotta love surfing in Floridas winter

Really super fun to be out with a friend, and get to also see some outstanding surfers. Life is great!

 

Today might have been one of the better days in VB in a while. Just as good if not better than Jonas. Wish I had got out earlier but something had come up... Man that was fun!! Head high+ waves with west winds after the wind switched. The drift/current was a ***** but other than that it was a really good day here for once.

 

Same north of you. Best part was everyone seemed to sleep on it. I was yelling to myself in the water.

 

Yesterday fvcking sucked for me! As I went for my initial paddle out a head high set unloaded on me as I tried a late duck dive. Blew me off my board which snapped back and cracked my head open. Ended up paddling back in after about 10 minutes because I had drifted so far, and found that my board had opened a two inch gash on my forehead. I spent my afternoon at VB General getting six stitches.

Glad you scored tho...

 

Oh man, Matt. That's terrible.

 

Take care, Matt. Heal up soon.
I haven't been out since last week.

 

Sorry about your luck Matt, that sucks, but the good news is you didn't get KO'd, so you must have a decent chin / beard on you

 

haha, thanks for the love fellas. I was talking about it with a friend later that night, and I am so thankful I didn't get knocked out. Had that happened I have no doubt I would probably have drowned...scary **** when you dwell on it.

I'm just bummed I missed a great swell. Today looks pretty freakin fun too, hope y'all get some!

 

It's a reality any time we step in the water. My fear is that I'll get knocked out in the shore pound getting out and drown in the shallow / kiddie zone, how embarrassing would that be?

 

That could likely be prevented by performing a propre sand reconne. It has worked for frost so far.

 

Or has it? He hasn't been around in some time now, thinking he slipped and fell in one of those gullies he was afraid of and ended up over his head and drowned....

 

Yeah, he has been absent lately. That just underscores the importance of plotting the sand trajectories correctly. That and a well tied leash knotte.

 

Damn Matt I'm sorry to hear that. Glad to hear that you're doing well!!! And yea I took off work until 1130 this morning. Still really fun out there. Head high sets coming through and super glassy. Good run here for VB

 

Looks FUN up north, hope you boys are scoring. Had ours yesterday, head high with light offshores all day. Super-peaky.

 

There was still some decent size on the sets this morning where I was at, glassy with light offshores till I had to leave, wished I could of stayed. Going back out after work for a few quickies.

 

Hey DPSUP, since you moved, what aboot your herb?

Do you head back to your old haunts or did you establish new connects.

 

I still have my barber who cuts great hair btw, but it's a back where I came from so it's a tactical mission mixed with visiting family.

 

Surfed a part of town I haven't paddled out at since the doomsday swell of 2012...firing with 2 out. We even held hands it was so romantic.

 

Quick DE session before work, fun but not really working. mid-late afternoon OCMD at solid size. overhead sets, thick a-frames, no wind but all of the rips and texture that comes with waves that size unloading on shallow sandbars.

 

Mitchell...you didn't mention we held hands...