Fear of surf after having kids

pu$$y....just to get that out of the way

 

Listen dude.....

Are you a chick...the after giving birth thing.........? I can't talk aboot that

But if you are a dude.......

It's all in the mental. It's your mind that is doing that to you.

A grinding 6 foot + day on the east side really is tame.

Listen, I'm not being cocky. I've suffered from the same thing. I've had this thing where I was thinking, " Well, I've done drugs, I drink too much and I smoke cigs....."

I'm not cardio-good. But I always paddle out into anything, well I did.

But it really all is the mental...unless you are like 300 pounds....and if you are I mean no disrespect.

On the next sizeable day watch a wave break.

And watch and see how quick it dissipates. It's not long.

Take walks and hold your breath while walking.

But nothing will "cure" you as actual experience in the bigger waves.

I don't know aboot the jetty crash unless you don't get the ways of the drift. That comes with experience too.

 

Jetty flea:
I totally get this. The past six months asthma has been kicking my butt. It's barely controlled with all kinds of inhalers and Meds. Since then, I just don't dare go into a bigger wave because I don't think I could survive a three wave hold down, maybe not even a one wave hold down.

So I do the shameful thing of just surfing whitewater on those bigger days. At least am getting wet and having fun.

You gotta just let it go and do what you can do.

The kid thing-- that's normal too. If you feel like you're doing something risky, then of course you're gonna be thinking about your responsibility as s father. For myself, My husband and I stopped doing risky stuff until the kids were grown. It's only right. It's part of being a man, and not a guy who never leaves his adolescence.

 

Umm, surfing head high days isn't risky behavior.

The three women on here.....I don't know......man. Maybe I'm gay.

Of course they are all people who don't really surf. Obvious by their posts. They are like me at 9-years-old riding white water at Zuma Beach.

What the hell would having a kid have to do with riding five foot waves?

It's not a death sentence.

Man, do you people understand that you wouldn't survive in the surf world twenty years ago.

Doug$ and Darrin Kelly would have hassled the shat out of y'all at the Pier.

Citta would have dropped in on you at 25th ST.

And none of you would be able to handle the isolation and ruggedness of the OBX.......

And yeah, those wetsuites weren't as good for you Peter Pan types up north.......

This place and the state of surfing fuking sickens me these days. It's just crazy. No one pays any dues anymore. They expect to be accepted for riding whitewater straight to the beach......like they are part of the "tribe"

Jesus freakin Christ, sorry Wayne.......

 

Of course I'll be the bad guy here.....

But look at Betty's "advice" which is nothing but BS....

And look at my advice.......

And the new generation keeps sinking lower.

A three wave hold down?

In Florida?

Say what?

Man, fuk all these newcomers. F all of you. You ruined the surf world. I'm sick of it.

No wonder I'm losing interest.

 

Hey Betty, out of curiosity where on the east coast are you getting a three wave hold down?

 

Bro, you're cut off!

J/k.

True about back in the day. But, you should not lose interest b/c of others. Think about Brock Little back in the day. And hell yea 30 years ago obx was pretty core.

 

Betty, I think it's smart that you know your limits

 

They didn't even have cable to watch Cantore and Keenely on The Weather Channel !!!

Say what you will aboot me, but I've been around the block. I've suffered my dues in Seaside and shat.

And the waves were so much better back then.....

 

Hey Jay D I know you agree with what I'm saying....

I know that....

But...I'm aboot to crack my 17th shot of the day........

And yeah I'll feel bad aboot snarking Betty....

But......

Dude, these types would have been KILLED back in the day........

And like it or not we all lose something by it.

Of course my WHO KILLED BROCK thing was ignored......

But, this is what killed Brock.....................

I believe that.

 

OP...I have 3 kids...been washed into the jetty more times than I like to admit. I personally don't sweat it and make good decision when in the water...do I get a bit of anxiety when a raging current on a big day is pushing EM towed a jetty...sure but who doesn't. But I know my water skills and abilities and trust myself. Its really a head game and I agree with Betty. Know your limits and feel comfortable about that... plenty of guys with a bit anxiety and medical issues only going out on smaller days and I do t think you should worry about it. Enjoy the surf you feel most comfortable with...better to k ow how much you can handle rather Han put yourself and others in danger trying to help/rescue you...

 

you need a hug

 

I surfed a big storm swell that I had no business being in. It might be small too you, but it was a 6' wave which is too big for my skills. So, I took the first wave of three, slipped off the board, got pushed down, then pushed down again by the second, and again by the third. Yes, it can happen in Florida.

 

Hey I know we didn't get along all the time but I respected you as a surfer.....

I always thought you were competent.

You get washed into jetties all the time?

In Ocean City?

 

Ahh maybe novices should refrain from "giving advice" ?

Just a suggestion....That's what this boils down to.

I mean, I don't know shat aboot many things, like rock climbing. But I don't offer advice to people aboot such things.

And if anyone wants to verify my credentials, I implore any of you to spend a week or two following me around.

Man, I used to be sponsored by Rip Curl, BZ and mothertrucking Wave Jammer.

I DID ESA CONTESTS !!!!

18th and final. I've been drinking since 10:30 this morning. But I paced myself.

Yo, Jay D meet me at Cedars tomorrow.

 

I don't know if youse talking to mees, but I wanted to hug you a few months ago in New York.

Hey, I was going down an elevator at Penn station then and someone coming up gave me a look....was that you? I had my traveling, I'm a surfer gear on so I could smuggle truffles from Stamford, CT.

Truffles are fuking awesome.

My dog can find them too. He's like, " Ahhh ruff I'll get y'all truffles yep.....woof, yep take me in the woods."

 

Nah man...wrong place wrong time...a number of times. Once at LBI once during a hurricane swell...trashed my board after wiping out and pushing me into the rocks in cedars, another in belmar area a Day after a Nor Easter took off in front of jetty...went over the falls...right into the rocks...bounced around a bit and pushed out and over it....another in Monmouth county...ah well...it happens...

 

Yeah, I got you.

I hit the rocks in Cedars once myself. On a Cane swell too. North Jetty Cape May, you know before hitting the Hudson area......

And once at Holyjoke, I paddled out in the middle of the field because it was crowded as shat.....and almost hit the jetty south of Holyjoke......but then drifted and rode shat all the way down Leeward way.

GOD I MISS THE OLD DAYS !!!

Love ya Truth, whether you realize it or not.....

 

JAY D !!

Or Truth...well, more Jay D because.........he probably has weed.

Meet me at Cedars tomorrow.