I have a lot of experience around chemo. People who never lost anything are lucky but are always behind people who lost.
Betty, do you, or can you, take an albuterol canister WITH YOU INTO THE WATER?? Point is, you should always have one within reach, ALWAYS, no exception.
To your original question, jetty-- maybe your recent onset of fear is not due to physical limitations because of having kids. It is plausible that your fear originates from a good trait--responsability. You have kids AND a wife depending on you and this may be bothering you as you enter the water?? Perfectly acceptable and normal human response to a risk taking adventure (which surfing is, especially near jetties!). As for physical limitations, yesterday I went out, waves were chest to head high; Tide was low so it meant a longer paddle out. When I got out there, I was winded. I work with weights, take long walks, cycle when wether allows, etc. Pretty good shape for a 65 year old, I am told. Winded? So, every wave I then rode it first along its wall, then turned and rode the whitewater right up to the beach. Forced myself to paddle way out again. Did that the first five waves. Last one wave, when I got out there, I was no longer winded. Tired? Yes; winded no. You will find a solution that works for you. Quitting surfing is NOT one. Take your time. Give your kids a hug--they are wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy more important. So is you wife. Let me know when you find YOUR solution. Would love to hear it.
Dear Barry: Yep. I toke up with the albuterol 30 minutes prior and keep that lifeline on the beach. Thanks for the advice though. Sincerely, your favorite moron, Betty
I suggest you find a way to take one with you INTO the water. I lost a best friend--he was in the back of his boat, his canister was out of reach in the boat cabin. His airways closed off and he was unable to reach the canister. Max is no longer with us. Don't let the same happen to you. He had "severe asthma". But this can happen to ALL asthmatics, no matter how they are classified by their allergist/pulmonologist. Take care.
This has nothing to do with having kids, and it has everything to do with being out of the water too long, being out of shape and trying to surf like you did before. Dont push it if you dont feel safe, youll eventually acclimate and confidence will come back. Look at people who live and surf hawaii all the time vs those who just visit. If anyone tells you they arent scared they are either full of **** or attribute fear with drive
I get in my own head from time to time. I know I have the ability and experience, and know it's all in my head. It happens to a lot of us, all for diffrent reasons. Injuries, kids, time out of the water, whatever. Deffinitly know your limitations but also push yourself in a smart way. Know that it's in your head and push it out. You'll work things out. As far as bashing betty. Come on man. CD kinda hit the nail on the head. She pushes herself. Knows her limitations and isn't afraid to admit it. And she's stoked! The state of the surfing world sickens you? Me too sort of. But it's the guys who think there something special for no reason that sickens me. Or the guys who constantly need to attempt to prove themselves, outside of the water. No offense to betty, but she's not a young girl who started surfing at the age of 5. She puts in work, stays within her comfort zone, and enjoys herself. I applaud that. Hell, I admire her honesty. She dosn't get on here claiming to surf DOH bombs like Slater. She keeps it real. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that. The best part is, she stays classy. She didn't get all worked up because some stranger dosn't agree with her. She dosn't ask to meet up to defend her honor. She just keeps on keeping on. Sheesh betty. Why'd you go ruining the surfing world like that!?
I now stay off the roof of our 2-story house for similar reasons. Too many people depend on me, and I'm not as flexible nor as coordinated as I used to be. Getting off the roof can be trickier than getting on. Age (60) takes its toll. I got beat up one cold session a couple winters ago. Reality check time. I'm not a kid, haven't surfed my entire life so I'm not very good at it, and my family depends on me. We're a one income family with a special needs daughter. One has to be responsible.
Bingo!! And that is what will define you as a great person to your family. How well you surf is important only in the minds of....well, of true morons!
Betty/Barry, you probably already know this but in the leash cuff there is a pocket for keys. It might not be big enough but it couldn't hurt to check. One kid on my cross country team almost died in the woods because he couldn't carry his inhaler with him, so I gave him a neoprene Nike arm storage thingy meant for running with an ipod on your arm. I had used it for carrying money or stuff when traveling so that I didn't have stuff loose in my pocket, but it works for some bigger stuff too.
i like to do a few sprints before going out when its big.seems to get my breathing relaxed which keeps my body loose and my mind calm.
Got to agree. Not to mention that all these young fit hipsters are riding longboards because they lack basic skills, wave knowledge, respect for others and simply want to snake as many waves as they can from those around them because they feel entitled.
Hey people listen, I was really intoxicated last night.... And my thoughts weren't being worded well... And I was being an arrogant jerk. So, I'm sorry aboot my actions last night.
Take it from yer Ol unkle Cheech. Going out on big days will keep you from smothering you baby in it's crib. Yer Wackum.
admittedly i only read the first two pages of this, another classic battle of idiots versus other idiots, but i have noticed something that one side of the argument might not have realized they are saying: "i am sick of kooks crowding the line up and getting in the way" followed by "just paddle out, pussgina"
Betty this russianguy konstantin butekyo was a genius as far as breathing exercises for asthma buteyko breathing method https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buteyko_method get a book on it I can tell you from experience that it works. this stuff is also good http://www.yamoapowder.com/. no allergist will recommend either. there is no money in it for them