surfing is supposed to be fun. if it is no longer fun on what you perceive to be hazardous don't go, whats the point. F what other people think, this is pretty much a solo sport. Also make sure you have plenty of life insurance. I dont know metard but with all his clever posts he probably would make a great executor to your will if something bad happened.
What you describe is what happens. The mental part got in my head on the bad day, which caused a bad drop, stuck inside and pushed into and getting caught up in jetty. It got into my head enough where it put me in more danger. The problem is thinking too much now but once I became a Dad it's definitely got into my head. More so now after that happened. Now, as others have said, you have people who rely on you. Before, you could just take chances or just not think about it. I'm confident in my abilities but this is more mental. I do need to get back into shape, but a 5 foot day is a joke and its crazy that this has gotten into my head this much. I think I'll take your advice where I get into better shape then I was before kids where there aren't any concerns and it will take away any doubt. Thanks.
Exactly. I always had a blast on overhead deads. Now, things have changed since you have a family and fear sets in a little more. You still want that feeling back and worry if you will get it. Surfing the smaller stuff is fun but not the same.
My bad dude, I wasn't trying to be right or wrong. I was speaking from my own personal experiences and it came across wrong. In the end do what your comfortable with, it's you're life no one else's.
I have also noticed how everything is different in surfing now compared to even 15 years ago. Please don't lump me in with these hipsters. I have paid my dues, I know etiquette and i have wave knowledge. I'm just getting older with a family and have a hit a bump in the road. It's a ***** getting older especially riding boards 6' feet and under even though I upped my volume.
Slightly off topic, but there's a point coming... I train judo. Used to compete regularly. Well the week leaving up to a competition my sensei would have me just run through my throws and submissions. Basically set up the crash mat and just throw my training partner, who wouldn't fight against it, over and over and over. No full contact sparring, or randori as judokas call it. I always thought it was just to get my technique tight and to keep from getting injured before I have to compete. And I'm sure that was a reason. But it also upped the confidence big time. Having a bad training session leading to a comp would deffinitly play with your mind. Throwing willing partners over and over made me feel like the man. And it deffinitly helped keep my mind right when competing. Calm cool and connected just doing my thing. I bring this up because with surfing, when you get in your head and over think or hesitate, injuries can happen. Or just a bad session. The mind is a weird thing. Even if you don't get into tip top shape, I think just feeling good about heading in the right direction and a few good sessions could completely fix your problem here
Wow it's great to know your ok! I was concerned... I thought you may have huffed too much glue or something.... Great to have you back and in one piece! Surfs up! Mr Belmar
In just going out into the water by yourself, you're already breaking a primary safety rule: always have a buddy. Yet most of us do it, many prefer it. One can't usually rely on or find someone to surf with at a particular time. I often get asked, "Were you out there by yourself?" Perhaps not as bad as SCUBA diving by yourself, something I did a few times in my younger (stupider), less responsible days.
Always go by myself; looking for buddies is homo. Now, if a girl with big boobies asks if she can go with me....."Sure"!!!!!!
Very well said! I meet beginners all the time who are trying to transition, want to ride the overhead wave, but are scared. If you're scared but excited and want to challenge yourself, go, you'll probably live. Most of us did. If you're just outright terrified, nothing good will come out of it, so spend more time on waist high rollers. When you're ready(ish), you'll probably know it, and if you never progress past head high, it's pretty unlikely anyone will care.
And all these guys on these new "shortboards" as they call em who think they're kelly slater but cant even use their board unless its 6+ and pumping. And then they all show up at once bringing aggro to the lineup that didnt have one nasty comment when it was smaller nor most days in the winter
Well as long as he admits he is like a toddler or a 16 year old girl. Guy claims he's a grown as man but uses "I was drunk I'm sorry" as an excuse like a 16 year old girl uses to her boyfriend after she just got ****ed by 7 cocks. Ive posted like 3 posts in the last 2 years but this guy brought me out of SI retirement. Way out of line and no one even seemed to care. Not to mention his advice of "dont be a ***** it doesnt matter how big it is just go out there" to an asthmatic, out of shape woman with a family. As if people never drown surfing the east coast
The east coast is dangerous sometimes. Actually last week was pretty dangerous. I think I've said it 100 times on this forum..if you can surf any east coast swell, you can surf anywhere in the world (some exceptions of course)
Classic PJB in here lol, thanks for the entertains. P.S. Betty, if you're getting beat hard and held down just queef in your wetsuit and gulp in a mouthfull, you can pull an extra 4 minutes underwater from the size of that tank.