who here has been surfing this week?

You headed there?

 

Nah. My parents are flying in from NJ for the weekend. Well be at the rincon (the casino) all weekend
Get a few for me

 

3 footers. strong off shores., propped-up to 4.5 foot rights, lefts, me kook as i surfer, all good...no one else out, kook is cool, cold wind on the bey today-pig pen...soul surfer? nooo...solo surfer? yes..felt quite gangsta, in Cabernet Sauvignon type of way...it was a good day.

[video=youtube;h4UqMyldS7Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4UqMyldS7Q[/video]

 

Hope you're out there!


This is what I got this am

 

Snuck off to Oceanside this am for a quickie
Got this sandbar really fun with no1 else out

 

I went last Wednesday the 24 the of February waist to chest west. Good day for Va Beach.

 

Been surfing small south Florida waves for the last five days. Nothing epic but still plenty fun. Alone and abandonned except for Saturday morning when I met up with fellow Sweller RadderB. Nobody else out but there were some super models in bikinis posing for photos on the beach. Another highlight was when RadderB shotted the pier and promptly got yelled at by the lifeguard and recieved some infraction points as well.

You don't stop dancing because you get old.
You get old because you stop dancing.
Life is good and I like that all the time.

 

anyone get out today in NJ (preferably Belmar)? Looks like there might be a little bump out there once it cleans up

 

itching to get out of school.....

 

Sh!t your pants in the nurses office Fungi!

 

brb gonna puke on my teachers desk

 

If you do it, you are my hero.

 

Got really good yesterday... Not really big, but insanely perfect. I mean... INSANELY perfect. Every wave a crispy barrel. Sometimes two on a single wave. Offshores backed down from 20-25 to about 10-15 around 3:30pm, and the lines were long and firing. It was getting silly toward the end.

 

The days we live for.

I caught a couple glimpses of the Town Beach cam this morning, some dude trimming along on a longboard. Good sunrise. Gotta head to work early so no time, but grateful someone else is taking advantage of the waist high peelers.

Next two days off, should be something filling in tomorrow.

Applied for a job in Bellingham WA, trying to take advantage of whatever swell fills in here in case I gotta run.

 

didn't puke on my teachers desk but...

i paddled out after school and it was PERFECT. wasn't quite barreling near me towards the beginning, but i was catching some really really long "liners". as the tide got lower there were many barrels to be had. almost made a double barrel. i was pumping through every section with ease. came out of the water more than satisfied

it's the days like yesterday that remind how much i love surfing

 

Thanks Bro!!

I ended up making it out for about 45 min before dark... WOW!!! IT WAS CLASSIC!!!

About waist to chest high... and it seemed like every wave on every jetty was peeling all the way in... silly is for sure...

took the longboard out- last wave got a sweet cheater 5 while getting covered up... and it just kept going... I remember thinking to my self "I don't know how this is still working... but it is lol"

Classic spring swells. I love them just due to the swell direction and the way the sand bars are set up after winter. I think the spring has some of the best swells of the year, maybe not the biggest- but we sure do get our fill of liners.

Im stoked!

 

I'm so jealous, i'm craving one of those type of days so bad. I see potential on the horizon though, keeping fingers crossed!

 

You said it, brother!... Twice yesterday I just laughed out loud for real, after getting these unbelievable rides. Just literally laughing all alone out loud. I was on a twin keeled fish and just getting crazy little barrel after barrel... Then I started trying crazy stuff... sideslipping down off the lip straight into the pocket... or snapping off the top, sideslipping down backwards, nose toward the curl, then snapping it back around just as I was getting covered up.

Just silly...

 

Sounds like you were just killing it LB, nice!

 

Damn I should have surfed BELMAR. I was out for 2 hours and although it was a fun time I didn't get it as good as you.