Initial Stance

Some excellent advise given here already and I like that. The only other thing I suggest is to be sure to always use the closest foot all the time as well.

 

Another tip for you is to spit out that GoPro, it's throwing your weight forward which is causing bad foot placement, trust me, it's true....

 

Just sponge u can just lay there and the water feels great on the loins.

 

I hear ya, my wife doesn't like to mess with cameras so I don't get any footage of myself ever. Occasionally I find a pic of myself on Gulfster, but very rare and it never does any justice to the session I had. My wife got me a GoPro a few years ago and it's still in the box. I keep telling myself I'll take it out one day when nobody is around, but I never do. It's just not my thing, feel weird even considering it.

 

Try moving your hands back. I always argue against paddling from behind the sweet spot. You can paddle from where you are and put your hands down a few inches back from where you place them when you stand up. For example... if you put your hands under your shoulders, put them back next to your ribs. Your front foot will land between your hands. Your back foot should "stay back"... as I used the tell the gremmies.

 

hopping up with my feet in the sweet spot is something I struggle with as well. usually when im out if shape, riding to small a board. I don't recommend the front traction pad. this is something you need to work out through repetitive practice, and achieving muscle memory/instinct.

 

Depends, late drops stomping tale into the transition I do a little move where I am kind of pulling the board forward so that as I come to my feet I am further back. If aim to angle down the line with all my weight forward to get going I pop straight up or even lean into it be more forward for the race.... Then do the curly shuffle back to tale for the hack, stall, or to carve. Depends on wave and feel for me and where you need to be on board as you take the drop.

 

When I started putting my hands under my chest / rib area it was a game changer, good advise

 

Back to carve, forward for speed, and just a lil shimmy in between.

 

As your surfing progresses you will find it is possible to move your feet while up and riding. On big waves you definitely need to have you feet planted in the right position during the drop. Too short or too wide of a stance can result in bodily harm.
Practice,practice,practice.

 

Make a conscious effort to scoot back a bit when paddling. Or place your hands further back when popping up. Both work. I have a tendency to pop up to far forward also at times.

Sometimes popping up more forward on the board and shuffling back is the better option depending on the wave shape. Thought that's worth noting.

It's all practice and muscle memory. Keep making the conscious effort and eventually your body will do what's best suited for the waves.

 

I don't think scooting back when paddling is the key...being forward while paddling and momentum while paddling gets you in. Once committed is where you adjust.... By the time you're up you are committed (at least through the drop/transition). Adjust where your feet will end up during the time you are paddling and the drop. That moment...maybe two moments will dictate whether your stomping the tail, normal stance, or "more forward". Op is talking about initial stance. To me there is a second or two where stance is determined

 

This is great advise! I also feel that you should always be paddling at the sweet spot on your board- not too far forward or too far back. The key is the hand placement.

Something else that helps is not over thinking it. Sometimes with surfing when you think and try too hard you end up messing up more- you really just gotta go for it and go with the flow!

Oh yea... And practice! From time to time we all have that perfect wave where we put outlet feet to close or what ever... Just paddle out and get the next one!

 

If it's steep, it's counter intuitive but I like to have weight on the front foot and adjust to the rear foot. That way it's not a stall at the bottom, or wherever I decide to start the turn. Sometimes on a late drop you don't have that option, you're hanging on with your toes, trying not to pearl. But if you have a bit of weight on the front foot it gives you the down the line speed to make the wave if you make the drop.

On a normal east coast rib to chest high beach break semi mushy, kinda bowly random stuff, too far back and you will stall totally. Forward take off stance gives you speed,and makes sections. If you have the right board for these waves, it's almost impossible to pearl unless you are just learning.

It should be easy to pop up correctly, but the lack of consistency and properre repetition here on the least coast makes it hard to work on stance. Hear me now, listen later: get an Indo Board and work on your stance, put the time in to correct and adjust. Spend 15 minutes a day for a week, you'll see! Thank me later.

 

Hand placement awareness has been very beneficial in certain situations, especially after getting pitched and eating it twice in a row, you start to make adjustments. That thrusting the board forward as you spring up technique that was mentioned is a good one when it is breaking fast. It's like being the hunter, instead of the hunted.

 

Every board rides different, my stance changes depending on wave and board. I used to struggle with correcting my stance, but realized later that you gotta roll with what ya get and if it sucks don't do it next wave.

 

I can't say I've ever given initial foot placement a proper thought, but now that I'm dwelling on it, if I'm catching a fast peeling wave where a bottom turn is not an option, then I pop up on the forward part of my board and angle for speed to make the section or barrel. If the wave allows for a big bottom turn, and maybe a trip up the lip, I'll start back on the board. It's not hard to do with a little practice. Once up and riding you can adjust your footing as needed, I mean it's not like you're feet are set in concrete.

For late drops, just be happy that you got your feet somewhere on the board. If you make the drop, then you can adjust.