Today in NY the waves were well overhead and steep, and i had a bit of trouble getting in and making the drop(partly because i was on a 5'10 and should have been on a step up). What are some tips to not go over the falls constantly.
You can still get into overhead waves on a 5'10". Kelly surfs Pipe on a 4'6". Just slide your body a little farther back on the board during the takeoff. Also, wear a condom underneath your suite.
Go left or right and not straight to the beach.. stay low and go fast! always put the closest foot forward do proper sand reconne and have your leash knot inspected for proper tying technique. all this should get you goin in no time.
You just gotta go... And practice... ... And on the job training These things will help you make the steep drops. Oh ya, close outs can be a hindrance and make you lose sense of your judgement
Wax the bottom of your board to go faster and avoid possible closeouts, broken leashes,and long swimmes back to the beach. And also waxxe the bottom of your feet for extra grippe during hairball late takeoffs. Especially the tips of your toes. That and pretty much what everyone else just said. I would write it down on your board so you don't forget next time you try to paddle in to a death pit, oh and don't forget hand positioning. Take them off your **** and back on the board during takeoff. Very important.
gotta pop up earlier so ur not popping up in the lip where u have no cchance making It down the face.try to think like water,it worked for bruce lee.the waves were great in ny yesterday I need to do a road trip up there
Yea... what Cep ced. You gotta get to your feet under the lip. If it's steep and breaking fast down the line, pop up at an angle and set you rail under the lip. You're kinda not bottom turning if the wave is breaking down the line too fast. If it's just steep, and not fast, you're gonna do the same thing, but keep your bort square under your body. You'll get that second of freefall, but if you're over your bort, you'll hit the bottom, compress, and crank the bottom turn to project down the line.
Maybe on the bigger, glassier day ride a board that has a little more curve to it or a board that allows you to get in earlier like a old school twin fin. Also, an extra paddle (stroke) can help too. It can take a lot of practice.
The right board will amaze you. Once you find it and have trust in your thrust, then you can throw your self over the ledge and like it was said earlier, somehow you make the drop. The rest is up to you. Oh, by the way, I got pummelled today on outside OH + pier sets with 15- 20 mph sideshores. I need a bigger step up (7' x 19" x 2.75" maybe narrow squash tail) like I used to have. The 6'6" x 20.5" x 2.66" Orion swallowtail was squirrely on the drops. I wish I never got rid of my old thick CI BBS(or whatever it was called). Baby come back!! 3:19
Surfing is a violent sport. This is especially true if you're a short borter. That video on Surfline is pretty amazing. But, dang, those guys are taking major beatings to make those waves. And those are just the ones they make - - they don't show us the majority which are people getting their clocks cleaned. 'Favorite Child' http://www.surfline.com/video/featured-clips/video-premiere-favorite-child_136233
