Soul surfing, rippa shredda, proneness, big wave charging, sandbar wadingnonswimmer

This plus barrel slut stylee.

 

Thanks JayD, solid thread

 

It's the while experience man. Get up at 4:30, enjoy a cup of coffee, check the conditions on line, drive down watching first light on A1A, no cars in sight, listening to Billy Idols Rebel Yell and other high octane music. Open up the gate, check out whose car is there, watch the sun come up, high five my crew as each one arrives, hoping for a mob of eight Betties.

Sunscreen up and catch up on everyone's outrageous weeks, wonder if Valhalla or FLSURFDOG might show

Do some recon and get that first glorious paddle out. Drink in the amazingness of it all.

If the legs are working, catch some superfun glides on the longboard and keep trying to turn faster. Ride prone of the legs suck that day.

Last as long as possible until spent and just keep grinning at my buddies and swear we will keep doing this like, forever. Life is so good.

 

Betty,
We love you

 

1. Wipe out 6 times out of 10, but I'll usually go for it anyway. Of the 4 waves I make, 2 are pathetic, 1 is average, 1 is amazing. 1 out of every 50 waves I make, I'll manage to look like I know what the f#$@ I'm doing. I like to sit outside and wait for the big ones, until I get bored waiting...then I paddle inside to get more waves, and usually get mowed down by the big set 30 seconds later.

2. I am not cool. I surf.

3. Athletic? No. I wrestled in hs because I got cut from the FRESHMAN soccer team lol.

4. Love sunsets and barrels. Prefer frontside barrels. Still haven't come out of a backside barrel ride...hopefully some day.

5. DP, then a nap and whatever, short mid-morning sesh, then paddle back out again in the afternoon, dinner, then an evening sesh...that's what I'd prefer. Rarely time for that anymore, being married and such, so usually it's a 3 hr DP and done.

6. BARRELS or offshore winds. Pointbreak, reef break, something predictable. F#$@ing beachbreaks are so unpredictable. I'd rather surf smaller waves at a consistent setup, but I'd much prefer big waves at a nice left point. My style is to try to do something a little different on each wave, something a little more critical. The best part of surfing for me is riding a wave in a way that I've never done before.

 

^^^ I like this. I try to not get too repetitive either, doing something different each time is what keeps it interesting. I recently did something that I can't recall ever doing before (maybe I have IDK). It may be something small to some of youse guys, but it was an amazing feeling.

I dropped in backside / going right (i'm goofy), wave was about chest high, I first did a bottom turn, then found my line and did a couple pumps to pick up speed, dropped for another bottom turn and cranked it and went vertical for a roundhouse snap off the lip as the wave was closing out and I ended up completing the snap as the curtain was falling and I rode the curtain all the way down about 4 feet into the flats, landed it and rode out of it and spun around and paddled back out. This is like the only wave I can remember right now it's so stuck my head, even though I have ridden countless others, it just stands out.

I've done similar things going front side, but this felt way better going backside for some reason.

 

Only a matter of time, brother...

 

Standing on your toes into that turn and letting the section bring you around and down feels buttery. It's like the board just wants to do it. Like riding a burm on your bmx bike, but better...

 

redheads over blondes, but blondes over brunette's

Puss over dog

Beer and wine and bourbon. Only drink top shelf, life is too short for cheap booze.

joints over blunts

nice folks over ****s

Surfing over not surfing

Just go outside and do sh*t

 

redheads over blondes, but blondes over brunette's

Puss over dog. Dogs are cool too, no offence dawg.

Beer and wine and bourbon. Only drink top shelf, life is too short for cheap booze.

joints over blunts

nice folks over ****s

Surfing over not surfing

Just go outside and do sh*t

 

Man being a "surfer" on the East Coast is a struggle dawgs

You know you might go weeks without a shreddable face insight

Surf when it's there skate or snowboard when it's not..one door closes other ones open...the spirit of the eternal shred bruhz

Of course this life is a lot sweeter when you add a little sex drugs and rock n' roll

 

Yeah man, I don't pre-plan anything when I surf, I just let it happen, go with the flow and sometimes opportunities present them self. When I dropped into the wave, I had no idea that was what I was about to do, I just let the wave and board do their thing after seeing it in my mind just a millisecond before doing it.It was just a reaction to the playing field so to speak. It felt natural, like it's what my board wanted to do, weird, but awesome.