The difference between 4 ft @ 15 seconds and being totally flat is just a litttttle too close for comfort for me. Actually, it seems many times they ARE the same thing if the tidez aren't just goldilocks right. People go crazy over these types of swelles, it's crowded as ****...all for a mushy closeout every 10 mins. Give me some consistent 8 second wind swelle and wind that's not too terrible and I'm good. So frustrating seeing swell on the buoy but none in the water.
jax area. Yesterday was fun. Today, it's basically flat. Our sand bars have not been too great since Jaoquin, though. Don't know why. It wasn't a big enough swell to really do any harm to the sand bars IMO. I'm hoping it's just the outoging tide that's holding it up right now. Maybe on the incoming it will actually break if the swell isn't too weak by then. Everywhere around here is really tide dependent now. It didn't used to be that way.
Poles looked fun at sunrise on the cam, not sure if that's where you were or not. Tide has a lot to do with it for sure. Like where I was this morning it was breaking chest to head+ on the sets on a full high tide, but just up the road it was barely breaking cause it was too deep there. I have a handful of spots I go to on high tide, all others just don't work unless the swell is really pumping. Most spots are low tide spots, at least around here.
I agree completely. 9-10 seconds is what you want for most breaks on the east coast. Swell angle is very important too. Straight east swells tend to close out. 5 ft at 9 seconds from the SE is where it's at.
I surfed the poles but got there a little too late. Tide was already full and starting to back out. Surfed it yesterday morning and afternoon and it was fun, but breaking verrrry shallow in the afternoon.
I don't surf there but Surfline says it's best on a North swell and low tide, so that probably explains it
Those sneaky SE suckup windswells are the best because the wind is usually light too. Plus, they're not hyped and thus not super crowded. When these big noreasters come through and it's overhead for days but victory at sea, by the time it cleans up it's straight east and long period, and every tom **** and harry from st aug to savannah comes to the jax breaks with their supository for a non existent swell.
It's best on a ENE swell. N or NE swell just passes us on by while it's firing down your way. I would say it's best on a mid incoming tide. I know surfline is good for some locales, but there's a reason we call it surflie around here. Regardless of swell direction, the poles is the most consistent break around here. If it's not breaking there, it's not breaking anywhere.
Word. I know this, whenever it's crazy out of control N / NNE / NE swell down here, its' usually groomed and clean up there.
^^^^^ Yup...bathymetry, bro...this guy got me canvesing coastal maps when the swells, tides, winds, etc get atypical
I counted 50 or so heads at a break I frequent. A week ago there were maybe 1/4 to a 1/3 of that and waves were much better. Spring has sprung the filthy casuals into the line ups.
I agree with those who mentioned a combination of bathymetry, swell angle, and period. A 4' SSE swell at 8 sec is fun stuff at almost every jetty. The same size/period swell out of the E closes out most breaks. A 4' south swell at 12 sec might not even hit half the county, whereas a 10' south swell at 12 seconds might be closing out everywhere.
+1 Long period and east swells are generally ng- everyone gets hyped due to the size.. But it's not really worth it. There are a few standout spots that will work with these conditions- but not many In the winter- there are a few times where I don't paddle out due to swell direction and period - just not really worth it when it's closing out and cold- and when I have other priorities like family. Maybe I'm getting old lol