who here has been surfing this week?

summer is certainly drawing near

 

great swell for us, especially this time of year. Got some every day this weekend. This morning was certainly the conclusion of the swell but still some fun lines to be had. Oh yeah, it's definitely summer. Lots of foamies in the water and we're already getting the seasonal shark attacks.

http://www.news4jax.com/news/florid...each/shark-bites-teenage-boy-at-neptune-beach

 

My slice of the PNW has been pretty flat and windblown. 6 feet at 7 or 8 seconds here equals a lake. Still managed to grab a few over the weekend, but thinking ill take a break and focus on fire season and work until it gets good again. Only so many times one can paddle into waiste high mush for the sake of getting salty and still remain sane.

Who am i kidding ill probably be out there again after work tomorrow

 

Bigger than called for and not very forgiving. Got my ass handed to me by Neptune & Poseidon all weekend long.... I blame Obama and global warming for my poor surfing.

 

My usual dawn patrol before school report: Fog fog and more fog. Looked fun for about 10 minutes in some spots but glad i didnt suit up, i wouldve walked back to nothing but fog and broken dreams

 

As I mentioned elsewhere, I surfed my cock and asshole off Saturday and Sunday. I would have surfed Monday too but the two hour drive each way takes more out of me than the surfing especially the ride home after a day in the sun. Despite the crowds I still got shiploads of great rides. Hard to imagine having more fun than I did. Good waves and good company. What a way to kick off Surfing Season!

Life is goode! I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

Was excited aboot having 3 nights at a friends beach house this past weekend. Worked my arse off to clear those days. Fri. night I feel my throat getting sore. Wake up Sat. morning and can't swallow. Felt like total arse until this morning (tue). Still in all a goode WE as I spent a lot of time pushing my kids into waves watching my oldest get stoked. Waves weren't all that great here but at least there was something to ride. Lots of parting all over the island for sure.

 

Still some nuggets to be had out there this morning. It was knee - waist and punchy little mini-barrels, lots of dropping in pig dog style and trying to tuck in for the cover up. Not quite what we saw over the weekend, but still plenty of fun. I stopped at my usual weekday spot 1st to check it and it was looking flat / too deep coming off the high tide, so I drove 4 miles South to my other spot and it was night and day. It's amazing how 5 - 10 minutes drive can make a difference like that.

 

Let the fog be your friend. Waves to yourself. People who live inland can't see it on the cams. It's great!

 

greatt name brah

 

never go north always go south, sleep south, eat facing the south , surf towards the south,

 

Viva La South!

 

fun little waist high foggy runnin rights at sunrise... stoked!

 

damn **** right viva la south bringing that **** back.

 

cascadia for the win!

 

yall might have cheaper 6 packs of water beer, but we got cheap micro brews and we can hit the weed store after the liquor store on the way home from work. YEW!

 

No Tuesday traffic, barry. The-place-that-shall-not-be-named was the destination. 0245 wake up, 0315 roll out, 0545 arrival 155 miles later. Wild Side was mushy & tending to close out. Shift north to NOB. Not too bad, nothing to write home about.

Chest on sets. Bar is really wide. Trough varies on tide. Low tide is over-rate
d here.

Good: nailing long 100-yd rights; not so good: finishing ride & getting dumped off the bar into the trough. Do not stop, do not pass go, take the next 6 waves on the head paddling out. Butt, always worth it.

Peeling rights on the mid-sized, the big ones tended to close out. Caught some air on a couple bangs off the lip, definitely a fun morning, no complaints ever.

Back driving the death desk by 130pm.

Hope y'all got wet / get wet this week.

 

Gawd was the surf bad today. I mean, it was surf but pretty much any boart I own other than my shortboart that I rode would have been a better choice. I've never been good on a shortboart in knee-thigh high waves, but today I was exceptionally bad.

The only good thing about surf season having started is that I wasn't the worst surfer in the water by a long shot. There were a few dudes getting some speed on those waves, but a lot of guys were just hopping hopping hopping and I can't do that ****. I gotta go check that groveler threade.

 

I have to admit--you are dedicated to purpose, man!!!
When I lived 45 minutes away, I thought I was dedicated. I moved closer on retirement/empty-nester syndrome, and now?? Not so dedicated!!! Getting old, I suppose......