Who here really doesn't surf ?

I'm here mostly for the life advise. if I have to surf for it - so be it. Or do I get to? Hmm..

 

Oh man i love this. To whom it may concern, this is based off of never seeing posts on the actual surfing threads. The only time I see them post it's either very common knowledge, or basic poser bs. Ill keep it to my top 3:

Barry Cuda
Stankasaurus aka whatever you're called this week
Sandblasters aka whatever you're called this week

 

Lately, I have just been a weekend warrior. Mornings are impossible to paddle out during the week, evenings I can make, but not lately. This weekend I am in NC visiting the woman's rents, next weekend I work Firefly, life. Not too mad it's flat right now considering I can't get out anyway.

 

I surf as much as possible, but living 3 hrs from the-place-that-shall-not-be-named is, well, what it is. So, as Zippy once let me know, I have a lot of room for improvement. And that's cool, that's the thing I like: surfing still challenges me - - whereas most everything else is pretty boring cause I've figured it out.

Surfing also gives me an excuse, not that I need one, to travel. Meet up with cool people, some from right here on Yee Olde Forume & catch waves that are amazing in places like CR, Bahamas, Europe, Caribbean, et. al. Anyways I'm no one to criticize anyone's surfing, as much of a parlor game as it seems to be for some asshats on here, and I enjoy seeing guys/gals who shred cause I know it ain't easy.

Heading for TPTSNBN in 4 hours & hey life is good.

 

Is there a morning bump? I'll be making the trek home in the morning

 

Seems to be universal accord from the sites that you could catch a few nugs on your big board - - get out there as early as possible. I'll be sand reconning on the wild side at first light. 0500 or so

Good hunting, Z

 

I don't bother talking about it because I didn't start until I was in my 20s and didn't take it serious until I was in my 30s. There's guys on here that have been doing it since they were kids and have travelled the world tearing it up. I could surf every day for the rest of my life and never be as good as they are. Mitchell,Gaffer, Doug$,Peajay,LBCrew,etc etc etc. Too many to name. And I never hear any of them calling anyone out or questioning anyone's abilities. And who gives a fock anyways? Its a personal experience for me. Not once have I ever thought, considered, or given a fock about what anyone thinks when I paddle out. The ONLY thing I'm thinking about when I'm out there is the next wave, not whether or not I live up to some other human's expectation of what I should be. Me and Mother ocean is what its about.

There's no Kellys or Micks or Danes posting here so who gives a ****e? This site/forum could burn to the ground and it won't make any diff when its cold and grey and the waves are just so so and I'm all alone staring at it and pondering. I'm still going to go. Because I just have to.

Maybe I'll get skunked. Maybe I'll miss the drop and get worked and look like a kook. Maybe I'll take a fin to the shin or a board to the head. Who the fock knows? Or maybe I'll catch that one wave that makes it all worthwhile, and makes me paddle out for...just...one...more.

 

Hey ill be the first to say that im a kook. But, I try and have been getting better.

 

After reading this post- I do find it interesting that there are some guys on here that never post or add to threads that are actually surf related... I guess I never put two and two together.

Personally that's the whole reason I originally joined, it to talk about surf related issues... But it has slowly turned by the way side and now there might be one Thread from time to time in the top ten about surfing. So I find as of lately that I have not been checking up as much...

Anyways- if you ask me- anyone who surfs Belmar is totally not a kook. I mean - I was just out there last night with my new quiver from Costco surfing big blue wavestorm and all the other guys where rippling it up- they might as well have been Kelly, Mick or Dane!

Laters guys- even if you don't surf - you still have added some comic relief to my life from time to time... It's ok to be open about it.

And to the dudes like Yankee (and many others who live far away) - I gotta give it to you guys, talk about dedication! Driving 3 hrs one way!! Oh man! Seriously it's easy to understand why your on this thread often being to far. I remember living about an hour away and it was a killer... Such a process to get in the water... you guys are dedicated!

 

No matter how much you've surfed, or where you have been to surf; if you revel in it, your a surfer.

 

ohhh man he went there...are you smoking krack? if so share i think youre holding out, do you want me to write a encyclopedia on surfing in my next post...basic questions get basic answers. basic poser **** is funny so ill leave you with back off warchild.

 

At soon to be 53 years old, I can say that surfing and where it fits into my life changes with where life takes me at any given time. There were times in my life where I surfed every day even if it was only ankle high on a dwarf. I NEEDED to be out there every day. There was a time I didn't surf for two years plus a day (incarceration) and a few times where I did not surf for a month or two due to life's other priorities. Coaching my kids sports or work/house projects or where I was just not near the ocean in time to make the swell. After I missed the doomsday swell a few years back, I vowed to never miss an event like that again and I didn't up till this year.
Now I've got sh1t going on in PA so I missed some decent swells but it's all good. The ocean is there when I need it to be.

 

BTW, I'll be surfing at 53 or 2 in SIC today if anyone wants proof! It's supposed to be 2 feet and choppy.

 

Huh!!??!! An unprovoked attack!!!!
THIS......IS.......WAR!!!!!