I haven't been out in 10 days, and it feels like a month. Life happens. The ocean will be there, and long after I'm gone. But for the past week plus, it's been ________________________________________________________________
DonQ droppin' wizdom.... Bunch of baby fvckers in here these days..and I ain't even talkin' about Wayne. Truth is...a day in the ocean is better than any day out of the ocean....and I'm in severe need of better days in my life. I could have gone today, I'm off...no work. Have you looked at the cams?!
my coffee MAN!!! my cofeee...awwww my laptop!!! awww!!!! fock.... thanks a lot! flatter than keira knightley up here, idk aboot where you at.
I'm 3 hrs door to board in the water. For me it's not just time. I make a decent wage, but we're a single income fam so it's enough to pay the bills and put some $ away so hopefully one day I can retire. So if I'm dropping $60 on a tank of gas it needs to be worth it, as that's $60 that could go to something else or be put away, like a new bort fund. So if I was w\in 30mins I'd be hitting a lot more of those iffy days, or when the bumps only gonna be around for an hour. Da wife gave me the greenlight last year for us to move, but it's just not the right move for the lil one. We're already making plans to pull that trigger once she's out of the house and off to college though. I just hope my shoulder and knees aren't so shot by that time that I can still get on it. If that happens then I'll just sponge it. I'm gonna keep going until I just can't do it anymore.
Yup, if you're a good parent then you put your kids first. Luckily I got my youngest into it when she was six, and she love's our Daddy\daughter surf trips.
Yeah I know you're just having fun, got no problem with you mang. I just think it silly when people get their panties all in a bunch on here and start demanding pics as proof. WTH is that supposed to prove anyways? There's a guy at CB that's 75 and still getting his glide on with his LB. I don't see him throwing air reverses or paddling out in hurricane swell. Does that mean he's not a "real" surfer? I'd rather share waves with that guy, a sponger, or any cool peep who's just having fun than some wanna be pro snaking waves and throwing temper tantrums when he misses his 15th air reverse.
Plus RileyBear's already defined what real surfer is. Real surfers don't have jobs, wives, or kids, or even a steady residence. They do drugs and mooch off their multiple girlfriends. So by that def there ain't many real surfers left in this world. Whapow. So pitted, so pitted.
started when I was 43. that was 4 years ago and besides my family, its all I think about non- stop! I know my ability needs so much work but I'm completely alone on this lifes mission! a hour away from any break! I once heard my brothers, wifes, uncle talk about surfing when its snowing and I went home and ordered a board! that was 4 boards and 4 years ago! now I improve every session! its been flatter than I can ever remember but I still check the report ever 6 hrs?? to be really honest surfing has helped me stay sober so I don't lose my family! SURFING TO SOBRIETY is kinda what I'm doing! it is a life changer, and for this 47 yo kook I'm so grateful! p.s theres times when I am the best out there! I'm either having the most fun, or realistically, I'm alone! ha ha!
Ho brahs or bruhs I live an hour from the zone and I hate all youz Ah not really but that Barry the mouth breather is pretty swiney Idk why any of youz even let him post on pee jays thread or tread..blasphemy!! I went surfing today on a hand plane made out of one my old skateboards...hey Jesus I even had a beer at DJais Man Zach even remerged...DSUP's plan to make SI Great again must be working
Well considering the website name is swellinfo anyone riding a swell should be welcome on the forum... Surfing bodyboarding skurfing with skim boards heck I've seen videos of dudes doing things on waves with hand planes that's wild...the real question is anyone man enough to take one of those blow up pink flamingo inner tubes out and jam a wave at your local break like those crazy catch surf guys did