who here has been surfing this week?

Now that's persistence! Eventually something good will happen, that's what I use to tell myself. OK, I still tell myself that...

 

Surfed the sand bar in front of my crib from 530-730 this AM
Tide was low and the waves were still pumping. 4-6 on set and would occasionally double ups making it extra fat. It was like a machine, i must have caught 30 waves.
Hopefully winds die tonight and get a lil glass off before this S swell disappears.

 

Another fun day on the south coast. 5 feet at 16 seconds. Head high, no wind, total glass, barrels launch ramps and long liners. All a man could ask for. Nothing like charging full speed down the line and gouging 5 or 6 turns only to give up and boost a big ol' tired air into the white water at the end.

Hopefully more of the same tomorrow.

 

a couple of good days in monmouth county earlier in the week. very cool water though. this is the longest i've been in any kind of suit in monmouth county since 2009. i'm pretty sure it was june 23rd or 24th when the water temperature finally hit 65 in 2009. that's usually the temperature that i tend to ditch the 3/2 and just trunk, provided the air temps are warmer and it's not some 58-65 degree morning. at this rate, i'm thinking we're not seeing 65 for another 10 days. i'll be out of town and on the gulf coast of florida for about 10 days from the 27th to july 8th. hopefully i don't miss anything good haha.

 

It is a flat around here as jawmoronskis girlfriend!!! (assuming, of course, he even likes girls).
Just viewed the local cam--FLAT---but yet, there are 2 "surfers" sitting in the water on their boards, looking out to sea.
They are not paddling....just sitting there looking to the East. Maybe they are muslims looking towards Mecca??

 

It's so flat here I bought a paddleboard, god forgive me.

 

Light onshore breeze, maybe 5, waist to chest high, clean on the face in MD this afternoon. water felt back up to near 70. comfy in a shorty. had a blast on the new Chemistry.

 

Waist high, relatively mild wind in the AM at Island Beach State Park today. There were some stomach/chest high sets coming in. It was my first time there and safe to say it won't be my last. Saw only 4 kooks all day long. There is just so much space to move around. I had out the log. Caught a hundred yard right going backside. It was one the best feelings I've had in a while. Sun was out, mild temps and really really clear water for the dirty jerz. Going back out tmrw with my broseph. Here's a pic of a nice long left.

Hope all the other Swellinfo brethren are scoring, peace.

 

Nice Father's Day morning session with an old college buddy. Little fun ones and clean. clear water shared session with an bunch of porpoises that dominated on airs and floaters . Barbecue with the family time

 

Plenty of swell and plenty of wind but it's summer so I'll definitely take it. Paddled out at the pier around noon and caught a few head-high lines. Not great form but plenty of size to draw on. I ended up just saying screw it and drifted about a mile down the beach in hopes of finding a better bar but nada, just the type of swell I guess. Either way I had a satisfying session in summer, without a hurricane, who knew?

 

Stomach to shoulder with some head+ sets, offshore until noon, incoming tide double-up barrels with 5 other locals on the corner peak and 59 degree summer water. Picked off at least a half dozen clean little shacks, making it out of half of 'em.

Drinking some Clamato-n-PBR's right now and enjoying the buzz.

Fkn good Father's Day.

 

Sunday=fun...stayed away from the craziness in town...great summer day.

 

Wife gave the go ahead while the kids napped. Ended up catching solid waist with the occasional chest, once in a blue moon shoulder sets. Crumbly but clean, with a solid amount of punch to it. Caught some fun waves that held a decent line. Got to surf with a couple of guys from work, one who never makes it out. Seeing his stoke as he caught a couple to the beach made a mediocre (but fun) day pretty freakin awsome. Loved seeing my friend stoked off his ass. Came home about an hour late, but the wife didin't nag or anything...just handed me a beer. Cooked some brats for dinner, put the kids to bed, and now I'm pretty lit. Great fathers day.

 

That's awesome man, glad you scored intrinsically, that's what it's about right? Happy fathers day.

 

solid run of south swell up here. Got a few great days from monday until saturday. Today was waiste high or chest high and kinda blown out, gave it the pass for R and R, word on the street is there sending us to new mexico or santa barbra for a fire or something, hoping the later so i can go AWOL and score el cap or rincon again

 

Sat am in my "secret" south jerz spot: waist-chest, occasional head high set with not too much wind. Crumbly and mushy with the near full moon high but there were definitely ramps and corners to be had. Only three other guys out on the entire beach. WTF? But I'll take it.
Sun am in same spot, off-shore light breeze, waited till just after high tide and had almost two hours of fun, lined up waist occasional chest waves. Size was down a bit from Sat and seemed to be dropping so switched to my log for the last hour or so and had blast on it. More guys out but only 10 or so. Plenty of room. Great beach day.

 

Yesterday I surfed in my bathtub!! I was using my rubber ducky in waves of unimaginable high!! (they were too small to even imagine!!). Ah, yes...summer in NH for a surfer!!!
Rubber ducky, you're the one!!

 

Went down to the beach yesterday morning with my spear gun and was pleasantly surprised... no fishing today! Dropped my gear and went back to grab a board.

I love it when the ocean tells you what you're gonna do... I was explaining that to the kid I spearfish with. Anything you do in the ocean... surfing, sailing, spear fishing... you let the ocean decide what, when and where. You can't force it. When you try to force it, that's when accidents happen. In that respect, it's OK to surrender to the ocean.