who here has been surfing this week?

Went surfing jesterday afternoon. Went to location where nobody swims or surf as there was a nice peak breaking there. Lifeguard shows up, whistles me in and says you cannot surf here, you need to surf where the crowds are. I told him he is a ****ing idiot; the closest person in the water to me was 1 1/4 mile down the beach.
Anyway, before going I looked up water temps--all readings were 61 deg F. So I put on a 3/2, no gloves, no boots. Entered water only to find out water was actually 51 degrees!! West winds bringing upwellings to the surface.
Ces't la vie, mon ami.

 

yesterday was fun at the south end of Belmar. lots of lefts for everyone. it was shredder-bud central. i didn't see any of those guys surfing all winter long at that particular spot.

 

Was the lifeguard Bubs by chance?

 

yup. Cut her loose.

 

I surfed this morning, it was fun. Nothing epic, but fun.

 

Very well said and glad your efforts resulted in a good sesh. Whenever I paddle out, I always pause to think how friggin' lucky I am to be doing this. I mean I could be living in Iowa or something. My local area is aboot as bad as it gets for surf on the EC. But when the stars align and we get it good, man, there's nowhere else I'd rather be. Like you said, magic.

 

Good stuff, sidogg. A July 4th swell would be suite! Man, what's up with these folks in Florida donning the neoprene in June? Hey DP-SUP, you got any of those fellers up your way? Oh, that's right, you only surf C & D grade waves that are always lonely except for the sharks.

Anyway, went back out yesterday for an evening sesh with my buddy. Didn't really want to go cuz I was tired and my sesh earlier in the day wasn't so great. But I knew he probably wouldn't go if I didn't. He needs to surf and so do I so I acquiesced. So glad I did. The waves were about the same, blown out and sloppy, but I got much better rides. Not sure why. The lower tide should have made it more dumpy. I think it was just because I was surfing with my buddy. We feed each other's stoke and always have a blast. We could be surfing the schittiest waves ever (actually we do) and still have ridiculous fun together.

Life is goode.
I feel sorry for people that don't have a buddy to surf with.

 

Nope, spent most of my session alone, nobody walking the beach or anything until it was almost time to go and then I noticed a couple dudes who had paddled out at a peak about 1/4 mile down beach, probably were there for a while because they got out shortly after me but I never even saw them most of the morning. Definitely had a sharky vibe, little fish were darting and jumping around.

 

I had a fun session with one other guy this morning and then solo. It was fun at dawn with some stomach high sets (rare chest). The tide filled later making it a little soft but still fun on a groveler. Can't complain about a nice morning surf before work.

 

Ah Veruca I was in the same zones yesterday

Bunch of shoulder hoppers wasting those lefty bowls off the jetties

Logged 4.5 hours of water time

Feeling all kinez of surfy brahs or bruhs

Hey I even took shelter and had a forthy IPA at DJias when that storm rolled through

Surfing is always better in a altered state...heed that advice kids

 

I don't need no stinking buddy!!!

 

You really shouldn't. I fvckin love surfin alone.

 

4:25
[h=3][/h]

 

i would but she sent me a tit pic today and queboobois are so nice.

 

Leftovers this evening reminded me about how great surfing is

 

Got out yesterday afternoon with the incoming... waist to chest high and perfectly hollow and clean. Crazy fun... with lots of little coverups and one full on barrel. Water was clean, clear and warm... osprey's fishing up and down the beach. Only a few heads in the water. So fun....

 

Marry her, stupid, before she gets away.
I married a quebecoise 43 yeas ago. She keeps herself beautiful, and I get a 3-course meal for lunch and dinner, every day. It is their culture.......
Best decision I ever made.

 

i surfed my Wavestorm yesterday. the surf was pooptastic.