who here has been surfing this week?

shredddinnnn to the max to dayyyy bryhsssssssss

 

Fun waist to chest high tide liners. Trunked it on my groveler. Caught a bunch of waves and another south swell should arrive for the morning sesh.

Life is goode

 

nice fluke!

surfed yesterday, fun little waves in am.

 

caught a surf early in the week. chest to head and glassy, long period south swell, about three feet at sixteen or something. 10-15 minute waits between the sets at the jetty, but fun when they came.

My female friend/fellow surfer on the fire crew got barked at and charged by a 3 ton sea lion, barrel rolled less then a foot from her off to the side last minute. Gnarliest wildlife action i have ever seen in the ocean hands down.

We all stayed in the water for a solid session after but it was a bit unnerving.

Upon getting out of the water about an hour ago me and the 40 year old male charger who runs the engine both agreed this would be one of the last sessions we would get before the **** hits the fan with fire season fast approaching...

how right we were, got a solid Initial Attack these past few days, pulled a 17 hour shift and a couple 14's for the past of the week on some double overhead fast moving flames.

gotta love the good life, wish me luck boys first day off in a while (and for a while) is coming up tommorrow and and hoping for the ocean to provide some solid waveful bounty to a humble hangerouter.

 

Me and the girls were out just after sunrise, clean knee to thigh high waves, and four waves came through that were bigger. I was surprised to see some of the regular really great surfers on it too. Made me smile.

Got some very fun long rides. We all did. Was fun to see one of the Big Dogs pearl on a thigh high wave. It will make me feel less embarrassed next time I do the same.

Love my new longboard. It paddles and moves so fast, it's like flying.

 

Same thing up here Trev, small super-long period SW stuff doing the double up thing...super fun this morning.

Dude I haven't heard about anything up here, where's all the smoke coming from?

 

Morning session good, afternoon bad.

 

Sounds like you've got quite the set up over there, Trev. Good on ya, bruddah.

Caught Second Beach about knee high today. Got the kids out there relatively early before the crowds showed up, and I managed to catch 6 decent waves on the longboard before it completely died. It is amazing how a solid stomach high wave can look so damn big, but I tell you, I was as stoked for those two or three that came in as anything in recent memory. Nailed 'em!

My son is getting to his feet pretty good in the whitewater...if he sticks with it I think he'll be clogging the lineup himself by the end of the summer. Don't know if he's got the blood for 5 mil surfing...I'll happily buy him the gear if he can hack it, but you really got to want it in January, if you know what I mean.

 

Fun little pulse in NH the last couple of days with a few sets that helped me remember, yea, I love fvcking surfing.

 

just back from a nice 6 to 10. smallll, like... knee to thigh around here, shoulder if you're drop knee. fun board fun time tho, got some nice little lefts with just enough power. time to get cereal.

p.s. tons of run-off from the "tornado watch" yesterday. seaweed salad everywhere. also got bit by mr. crabs. in his defense - i did step on him by accident. my apologies, mr. crabs. this weather is awesome.. so much color, im going back outside!

 

Another very fun day today. Waves were knee to thigh high early morning, super clean, easy long rides.

Valhalla came up with the wife who is learning to surf. She is stoked and it's fun to watch her progress.

I saw my friend was catching a larger wave, sitting further out. I wanted one of those. Paddled out, saw it coming, spun the longboard around (as much as you can spin a longboard), took three fast paddles and Bam! Up on that wave feeling that great floating feeling. Really enjoyed that particular ride.

 

Hit RI this morning mostly for a beach day but managed to get a decent hour of small but fun longboard waves as well. Midday, the low tide, rising chop and copious tourists all over the area where surfing is allowed made for a less productive second run. Perfect beach weather though. Water is now warm enough that a springsuite is unnecessary and shorts/rash guard were more than enough.

 

TPTSNBN was small but fun being out there on a gorgeous day, blue skies, 82 F, low humidity (39%). Knee high & the NNW to W wind helped keep the vampires at bay. Trunked it. Water temp definitely, uh, refreshing. After 90 mins had to come out to get feeling back in toes.

NPS doing their willfully ignorant goober routine again. The OSV was open only 2.5 miles. Reason: piping plovers have another 3-4 wks of getting busy. Fine, no problema with that.

Butt, don't continue to let the allocated 145 vehicles into a 2.5 mile stretch of beach that normally is over 12 miles long. WTF are you asshats thinking, NPS?

 

Second Beach?

I totally bagged it today, but yesterday I was able to snag a few set waves on the LB, and the weather kept the swimmers out of the shorebreak.

I'm all-in tomorrow, knowing what I'm getting myself into. I'm going to bring the LB but I don't expect there will be room to use it. Bringing the fins and handplane and figure that will be the better bet.

Should be a nice day, regardless.

 

Staying in AC at the Atlantic Palace with girly and ma this week. Woke up to some decent swell this morning. Dawn patrol with my fish on waist high. Took a break to go to OC. Was gonna try to catch waves there but did they dredge or something? Was a complete 180 from AC. 7th street is awful. It looked like a lake. Anyways I made back to AC by 6 and got a solid hour and a half on my groveler. Was able to link in some nice turns and get long rides too. All and all stoked. Not looking like much is happening for the rest of the week but we can only hope! Enjoy the weekend doooodes

 

headhigh wind slop today. drank a few beers and forced myself to paddle out after work because i know ill get sent on a fire assignment soon. Lotta work, but managed to get a few solid ones with the north easterlys blowing 20 mph in my face.

 

To each their own. Mid to upper 60s water temp = 3/2 full suit for me. RI is freezing and it's nice to finally be warm. Of course the waves go away once it becomes nice. Stay away from chest zips if you want ease of entry. I get my backzip on in 10 seconds and is comfy and fits right. Easier than applying sun block all over my body and the suit provides better protection from the sun than sunblock which rubs off onto your board. Rhody hasn't had good waves in 2+ weeks. Been a horrific summer so far, unless you like knee to thigh high mush.

Warm winds is running summer surf camps at that horrible close out beach break at narragansett. Gansett town Beach seriously needs a few jetties or a pier to be installed on the beach to break things up and avoid the constant close outs. Beach sits in a cove so swell can't hit at an angle, which makes it even worse. You make the bottom drop and you're done 95% of the time.

It gets crowded more and more every year. Just wait till the wave pool kooks come out of the woodwork and surfing enters the Olympics. Double whammy. Got to be 75 people out that weekday in the pic below fighting over garbage.

 

So, this morning there was a 1ft (at best) swell coming in at low tide. 5AM; nobody in the water or even on the beach.. I suit up and go for a long paddle on my longboard. As I am down the beach ,I look out to sea and notice a swell coming towards me, not large, but clearly waist high. It gets right to me, it is an "A-Frame", perfect, offshore winds are light. One paddle and I am up and going down the line for a long ways until I reach shore!! Like where did THAT come from??!!?? No more waves anywhere!!
THEN, I pick up my board, the water is crystal clear, I am in knee deep on a sandbar.....and a 30" shark goes cruising right by me. Small for sure, but enough to startle me.
I resumed my paddling, returned to where I got in, and said to myself....."Nice start to a day; and I did not lose any of my toes to this shark week attendant"!!!

 

Did you tag the shark? Was it an oceanic white tip? DP was flat, checked the cams again at 9 - saw kayaks and sweepers going for 18"ers. Decided to opt out and spend time at home instead (yes, watching discovery)

 

La Semana de Tiburones