who here has been surfing this week?

Hear ya, Barry - - destination not Tamarindo. GringoLand Guiones.

True, the medicale isn't there.

Saw a SoCal millenial get his arm cranked by a longbort. He completely broke the ulna. Pretty gruesome although not a compound fracture, thankfully from an infection aspect. Guy staggered out of the ocean holding his arm & grimacing in pain.

Local doc happened by on horseback (couldn't make this stuff up) & splints it, wraps it. No painkillers. Then the fun part for our buoy: 2 hour drive in an old pickup truck over washed out, deeply rutted roads to Liberia hospital. Apparently, he only screamed on the really bad jolting bounces.

CR docs set it. Oh. Not such a good job. He had to have it broken & reset by SoCal orthopod. Guy was in & out of casts for, like, three years.

Surfing in the tropics: not for the faint of heart.

 

And gracias for your good trvl wishes, senor

 

Buena suerte Yanqui, tenga cuidado.
Pics or it didn't happen.

I trust that RCartier will be holding down the fort in your stead.

 

Gracias hermano keed Piedra!

I do miss that rascal GitCartier here on The Forume!

 

Was actually thinking about going to your best buddy Riley's spot in the Brig.

 

A lone one hour before work yesterday AM. Not much out there. Glassy, knee high max, if that, but enough to keep the longboard moving. Water was cooler - mid 70s. Upwelling like a lot of other places, I guess. Low 80s last week. Air temps in mid-afternoon have been approaching 100 here. A bit too warm for this cat. Still a lot of dolphin and bait fish. OK as long as my toes don't become the bait...

 

Yikes, yea, when shiiiite goes bad, it goes bad on steroids in the tropics.

 

Surfed this morning incoming tide the smallest waves on my biggest board. Puny gutless fun. Not knee to thigh high as forecast

 

Got my boardt (sp?) out after work last night. Looked promising. But then the misses started yelling about too much surfing. So I took to drinking instead. Looks like I didn't miss anything anyway.

 

cool water, 2 foot mediocrity this morning.

 

Agreed

 

there's been no waves for like 2 months. anyone who claims they went surfing is a gigantic liar or is of Huerve Vallechez stature. i am about to put all my surf gear on Craigslist.

 

Skinning it is fun, but you pay for it. Now I'm all rashered up. Gonna have to dig up the rashy.

Not as good today. Chest-to-Head with some wind texture, marine layer, and cold pools in the water. I was the only dood not in rubber. Better earlier, probably. Still fun. Got some barrels. Got some shoulders. Maybe got my picture taken.

After 2 hours, I was ready to quit. I caught the perfect HH+ session-ender outsider and pulled right into the barrel. Then I dumbly waved at my buddy on the rocks while in the tube. Bye-bye bort. Tried to bodysurf the rest of the way. Didn't work out, over the falls I went. Ruined the perfect finisher.

So I paddled back out for another half-hour and caught a few more.

 

got up with my fish before the sun today thinking i was smart, but to no avail. came back and was rewarded for my loyalty however at the end of the day with some ankle to knee high little peaks for the log. forgot how fun that board can make things

saw a lot of people doing the same thing this morning and evening in moco. real waves would be nice but cant be ungrateful

 

Utter flatness again out on the pond. Break out the fishing poles.
Feel lucky to have gotten out Monday morning.

 

I thought I fired this guy. Keep rubbing it in. Every day is pumping. Waving at your buddy while in the tube. What is a tube? Or for that matter what is a wave?

 

This week I have not.

 

Move away from the wrong coast and you'll find out!

I remember summers groveling in Marblehead for something--anything--to wrap all the way in all summer long. Running every day down to the beach to witness the flatness, then running back to work along the docks, past the park, watching teeny tiny wake dribble on an exposed shoal and fantasizing about being a millimeter tall so I could surf it. No thank you.

Today was pretty small. Chest high max, with maybe a HH set wave that nobody was getting. Sunny and warm, though. Dug out the rashy and had a ball. Clear water now that the surf is settling down.

 

wow what a tread. Still goin'. I surfed Friday evening on my log. It is definitely summer in Virginia.