Emass: My 2 centavos. From your statement "...got a lot of catching up to do to you vets. Need to log those hours...", it sounds like you're on an urgent quest to make up for lost time and cram in as much surfing as quickly possible. I can sort of understand that, as I started learning to surf later in life. I'm 57 and have been only at it since August of last year. Sometimes I wish I had started sooner. Surfing is certainly addicting and consuming. I've often had to remind myself to be grateful for the experience (bad and good) and enjoy the journey. It's similar to learning martial arts, with which I've had some experience. Many beginners want to know right off how long it will take to earn a black belt. They're obsessed with getting a black belt in as short amount of time as possible. But in the process, they often miss the whole point, meaning, spirit, and the "art" of martial arts. There's more to it than just the mechanics. There's also a certain "seasoning" that comes with time. This is important too. I think surfing is somewhat similar in that regard.
Just resurrecting some epicness. Somehow, I always pictured Emass' event going down something like this:
Y E S this awesome....the best part a where he just stood up, or didn't just bail the board and figure out how to swimme outta there, or when he passed up the chance to get on an nsp and float outta there summer pros, man
i remember when he wrote this but i never commented on it to now i think i was just blown away by it.
heavy situation brah... when ur getting pounded for 2 minutes before realizing ur in waist deep water...
Am I the only one internally chanting for the guy straddling the breaker to give himself a colonoscopy?
That guy in the video should probably give up surfing but I mean everyone gets in over their head once in a while but in the guyscase it's not even over his head.
#undertoe #holdovers I couldn't even quote the OP to italicize those funnies, Rereading entire thread now.
That's funny, as i was skimming it to see what i posted back then, I was responding in my head. When I finally came up to my posts they said almost exactly what i was thinking today. At least im consistant.
revamp this thread its golden!! and when ur heading towards the rocks,swim out to sea.the rocks will not save you
Wow! Check out page 4... Remember how he had those super long posts to answer spicific questions from everyone? He quoted everyone question!! This is crazy...
