who here has been surfing this week?

Three weeks ago I swore I was sick of surfing tiny waves, but man...three hours of it this morning and I was pissed I had told my wife I would meet her for lunch and had to quit. A 4'11" mini simmons shape and a little face to work with is apparently all I need. Early afternoon, Delmarva.

 

Thigh to waist high peelers this morning... straight south swell and offshore wind. HOT as a mutha...

In and out of the water from 8am until 3pm with the log. I'm burnt...

 

Yeah when I walked out early I forgot to bring flip flops. BIG mistake four hours later.

 

Rather than DP today, I waited for low tide, and I'm glad I did. It wasn't as clean as its been due to light onshore wind, but there was more size and it was consistent. Mostly waist high but there was a few pushing the chest high range. A lot better than forecasted, which seems to be the norm lately.

 

+1

 

Flat up here today... but at least the viz is improving.

 

Finally got some yesterday right after low tide, the incoming push brought in a few lumps. It was a east south east wind swell that found a hole and a deep spot, then a sandbar. Only a couple other folks out. I brought the 7'6" wave hog, and it was the right choice. The first wave I caught, after six weeks of nada, was about stomach high, a right. I layed it a bit too hard on the first turn, my legs were too stiff, then rebounded but lots some speed, then a girl dropped in on me, and I had to shift my weight abruptly and fell. To her credit, she apologized and paddled down the beach in shame.

Lots of fun surf was had in the waist plus to maybe almost chest high range, and some long ones from out past the ****** to all the way to the sand. Even though I've been swimming alot, my paddling muscles felt it. It's good to be burnt and sore on a Monday. Peace and waves ya'll.

 

Some kind of mysto swell for sure. Got to the beach around noon to see chest high peaks rolling in. Surfed til sundown. It even glassed off in the evening. Fun nuggets rolled in all day.

 

Yeah man I thought about going back out but I decided to start prepping for some ding repair on a couple boards of mine. Still swell in the water today. Didn't go out at high tide this morning, might get out after work, see how it looks later on. Glad you got some of that though, it was fun.

 

Not to derail the thread, but it seems like moving to the coast has greatly impacted your life in a good way!

 

Without a doubt. Living the life I dreamed about for so long. I pinch myself sometimes.

 

.

 

Indeed, cheers!

 

Last evening I got out right at peak high tide, wasn't expecting much but it turned out to be pretty fun actually. For the first time in a couple weeks I went back to my ole faithful high tide sand bar and sure enough it was working when most spots were too deep. It was a consistent waist high and a couple peaks were pushing the chest high range.

Nobody out but me. Some rights, some lefts. Mostly crumbly ramps but a couple stood up and hollowed out a little on the inside. I was riding the LB mostly from the tail, not too many nose rides this session but there was a couple I did to extend the ride through the flats and into the reform.

As the sun was setting I was walking back up the beach and noticed how clear the sky was and how bright the nearly full moon was. I stopped at the top of the boardwalk and gazed at the horizon, watching a few more waves break in appreciation before heading home for grilled salmon prepared by my beautiful wife. We drank a couple glasses of Pinot Noir, I burned one down, and then chilled out for the rest of the evening before crashing out.

I slept through my alarm to get up this morning for DP, haven't done that in forever. Not a big deal though, I'll still get some later hopefully.

 

Idyllic, DP. That's what it's all about. Dinner sounded great!

I'm in DBS for a month of vacation, so I only get to enjoy this experience intermittently. Hope to retire down here at some point; hopefully, I won't be in an old folks home before that happens.

I agree that yesterday overperformed relative to forecast. Not much of a crowd given many kids are back in school now. I just sponge it, but from yesterday's sunrise to the beautiful sunset vibrantly coloring the towering Cu's over the ocean, it was all awesome. Got some good reformer rides at mid/incoming tide yesterday afternoon. Have been happy the pm sea breeze has been somewhat lame the past two days, which keeps things from mushing out too much.

 

Nice, I like that area up there, good spot to retire at for sure. Glad you got some time in the water, it's been decent for this time of year.

 

That's a good day!

 

Indeed it was Z

 

+1 & elevating to 'that is a GREAT day, DPSUP!' good on ya mate

Made me want to hop in the truck & search for the same gig, bruddah

 

Well F'ing A Yankee, I'll drink / smoke to dat!