who here has been surfing this week?

We got the orange cootie flag today, prolly from runoff with the 5" rain we had this week. I don't recall that ever causing me a problem. Don't have any gaping wounds today for them cooties to swim up into.

 

A little extra bacteria never hurt nobody! Oh wait, yes it has....

 

Minor stings around the ankle, more itchy than anything. Kid and I have been getting stung once per sesh on legs/feet since Monday. Not a big deal.

Then there's this: http://www.wmfe.org/minor-fish-kills-foul-smell-prompt-water-testing-in-daytona-beach-area/62969. Haven't noticed anything unusual in DBS.

Fairly fun day today.

 

A couple longboardable days for me, the past two days. It was flat only after 2 hours or so of being in the water today.

 

Never thought it possible, but each day this week has been flatter than the last. Haven't been out since Wed last week. Lord have mercy.

 

Nice little pulse came in last evening and into this morning. The swell is doing a little better in the Norther part of the region so I went back to my other spot that has been consistent the past couple weeks.

I paddled about before first light to glassy, punchy, waist high walls with an occasional plus set. Long rides with open real estate to carve up and down the face. Just me and a local guy I've been seeing at this spot frequently. He's an older dude but rips on a mini Walden / Simmons looking board.

We pretty much stayed on our own peak but some of the rides were so long we ended up crossing paths a couple times but it was all good. I caught a bomb set and rode it for like 100 yards to the left and then I turned around to paddle back out and he was just finishing his ride on the wave behind me. When he was done with his ride he went under water and when he back up he gave me two thumbs up. Never met the guy before, but it's pretty cool sharing stoke with a complete stranger when they are of the respectful variety.

 

I was getting tubed all morning. Then I went surfing with Kander at sunset cliffs.
Chest to HH and glassy. Only a few others out. Good morning!!

 

Isn't this Kander's first reef experience?

Cliffs is perfect

 

Took him over to LJ reef last night and kind of scored. Inconsistent. But there a few HH sets. I seen him get a few that were easily 75 yard lefts.

We hit south garbage this AM.

I think he's already looking for jobs out here!

 

Noice, I'm jelly.

Weirdest last 3 days I've ever seen here. 90 degree weather with offshore, 50 degree water and 10 foot tidal phases with 5-6 foot storm surf at short periods. Just not really feeling it lately.

Got a suite sunburn though.

 

Superfun little thigh high pretty clean, a few waist high bombs this morning early. We were having so much fun gliding across the water. Wounded Warriors did a surf event mid morning. They had a small parade in the parking lot with the Color Guard and bagpipes, before hitting the beach.

There was Lake Okeechobee vegetation discharge all over the water and beach. We need to get a truck, load this stuff up and dump it on the Governors front lawn.

But it was still a blast, and every day you can surf is a great day, some swell coming in later this week....nice!

 

You and me both, bruddah.

My whole face is peeling and my bottom lip is turning black.
Sucks when I forget to bring my Waterman's.

The fact that I've been able to get in the water makes it all worth it, though!

 

super fun over-tow barrels this am,heel high sets

 

I'm red-we than red.
Bare backing it with front foot traction was NOT a good idea. My nipples. Oh my nipples!
Going to Costco to get some aloe Vera.

Waves are pumping again in front of the crib

 

Forget that--take lots of vicodin, then a fifth of you favorite bourbon.
Good bye!!

 

Vicodin is good for sunburn?

Man, I need to find a better doctor.

 

Doctah Barry is 'in'

 

waves were fun here today. they wanted me to work over time and i said **** THAT. Those fires can deal with themselves when the waves are pumping.

as my boss said "we could pretty much stand in a circle and high five each other the whole time and the fires would burn out eventually"

 

Paddled out this morning for a quick hour session in front of the crib.
Thought it to be only waist high...when i got out to the water's edge, saw only one other guy in the water and he pulled into a solid head high drainer. Didnt make it, but clocked some serious tube time!

I got a perfect 3' barrel that hit the sandbar perfectly. BEST BARREL OF MY LIFE! Clean exit, too!

Stoked on life right now

 

Fkn A Scobes, happy to hear that man.

#omysty