who here has been surfing this week?

Dammit Betty! I knew we shoulda done a two-fer! Glad you got it though.

Regarding swell period, while size matters, duration is the key

Good on you for convincing the guy to return that snail to the ocean. You should never take shells with live animals even though that's where all the shells in the shell shops come from.

Have fun tomorrow. We might get some of that long period swell down here late in the day.

 

So last week I did get out. Friday seemed best, as the waves were glassy, waist high, (early dawn patrol) and wind light off shores. Used my G&S Egg, with quad set-up. Zipping up and down and down the line.
Made my weekend, anyways.Now, tomorrow on Labor Day = Victory at Sea expected. But I do know of this little corner........

 

Score!!

 

Cape May today = total shart show. Biggest melting pot of surfing I have ever seen. Was fun in the morning though.

 

I live there it's always like that but yea some guys were charging this morning, good size swell at "the spot". Haven't seen it that good in years

 

Great....just fvcking great!! We have the flattest summer EVER, and we finally get to waves on hand.....I wake up with a fever and sore throat!!!
I must be a moron!!!

 

Glad to hear everyone is getting some waves! Its been a long flat summer.

Went up to Barrys turf last week for Gaston- Fun to be in the water again, but I think we all agree that it was a bit underwhelming. nice to get the juices flowing for this current swell. Logged it out in the Cape on Saturday. No one in the water but me and the seals up in Truro.

Back at work today for a few hours to rake in some 2.5 Holiday pay. 2PM Cannot get here fast enough as I drool over the cams in RI. Spending the night down there and just cannot wait to feel the power...

 

www.warmwinds.com

Streaming cam is free, just sign up.

 

Surf's up everybody! Woooo hoooo! Chest to head and building, 15 sec period, lots of paddling, N to S drift. Took the M-80 for a spin, lots of fun on the inside and mid bar on a relentless incoming tide. Get on it everybody!

 

Sunrise the waves were chest to overhead, chunky, lots of close outs, long period, very powerful push, incoming tide. The crew arrived early to two guys in the water and a bunch on the beach watching and hoping an hour might clean it up.

It cleaned up somewhat and came down just a bit, could score a chunky waist high if you wanted to avoid the bigger waves. We saw some really long rides, the kind you get out to walk backup the beach for.

Well, these conditions are beyond my skill level, and I am now skilled enough to know that

So, it was chilly on the beach like 10-15 mph NNE and the water was so warm that we decided to go in to the ocean to warm up. Two girls paddled out to the lineup which looked to be as far as Africa. When a really good surfer girl we know said to one of them,"geez, I am having trouble getting pushed down to the bottom" she knew to take a wave in. And stay in.

The rest of us got wet, the rips Were strong, you could lie on the board and not even paddle to get out. It was still wonderful to get wet and be part of the ocean, hang out in the inside and then enjoy the excitement on the beach. So, seemed like the guys were really pumped, thought the waves were pretty tough to surf, but they all managed to find some nice rides. Maybe by now it tamed down a little, seemed like we got tomorrow's forecast a day early.

Stopped at Wabasso on way back, and the waves were a lot cleaner and more organized there, some tubes if you were skilled enough not to break your neck or board on the shore pound.

One guy said things were really firing at Monster Hole at Sebastian Inlet and he said it was very fun.

So, I am looking to hear a report from DPSUP about conditions further north.

 

Lol look above your post. I wasn't far from the Inlet, at an empty beach. After each ride to shore, I got out and walked back up the beach to where I started and did it all over again, and again, and again! And actually, it should be bigger later, and prob bigger tomorrow. Surfline said the forecast was way under called so expect bigger conditions.

I saw some guy on a LB way down the beach try to make it out but he gave up and packed it in pretty quick. Believe it or not, I tried to wave him down to my peak but don't think he saw me, or he did but didn't think he could do it. Sometimes a little encouragement is all one needs to not give up. I wouldn't have minded one other person out there, cause more waves coming in than I could get to, it was non stop.

 

Yesterday at Second Beach was good. Not epic, but good. Just me and about 2-300 other surfers. The guards opened more of the beach to surfing and the south east end was better than the west for a change. I made a tactical decision to use the 8'0 Desert Island. I didn't really need that much board, but with all of the SUPs, longboards, and crowd in general there was some value to have something that could get you into the waves early.

Did about 3 hours on the DI, came in for a snack and water, and then did two more hours on my short(er) board. It was my Rawson 6'8 that I used to ride on the North Shore but haven't ridden in about a year and a half. I caught one right, about head high, just lined up forever. God, what a good wave.

Today I went to a reef that isn't nearly as secret as I thought it was. There were a lot of folks on it, but when I first got out there were some serious waves coming through. The biggest set I was paddling straight up on my 6'8 for a couple of feet, so easy 8-10' face. Unfortunately it was really lully, and the really big set shut down abruptly right before high tide and didn't come back while I was there. I got two really nice waves, overhead and just lined up and the Rawson reminded me why I love it so much. But damn, man, just too many people given the lulls. 3 hours and maybe 5 waves total, so not epic. I wonder what Second Beach looked like? I'll bet it was good today.

 

Matunuck looks like it's straight up going off. First beach looks flat. Matunuck is definitely the call. No way am I driving all the way out there at this point, though. I'm totally spent.

 

Wind is coming around a bit in North Jerz. Looks real dumpy right now but should get better as the tide turns. Hopefully get a good hour before dark.
Still plenty of size.

 

pretty good right now in nomoco,not the cleanest but manageable.got some fun ones,real nice drift too

 

Was at the home break today........FUN, FUN FUN.....what can I say head high, right place, right wave all the way to the beach, nice power, a little onshore wind but not enough to really chop it up too bad......all in all, 6.5 out of 10, although my expectations are a little higher than most.

 

Glad you got some bud, it sure was fun, no lulls and endless waves. Wind was calm at first and then a light onshore breeze started , but like you said, didn't really mess things up much, a little more white water than I would like but I'll take it.

 

I'd kill for a paddle-out like that!

 

Wow that looks fun!

It cleaned up here in Belmar mid afternoon. I got out before dark. Had some size and some good lefts buy had to be in the right spot at the right time. Only got a few

Although it looks smaller down there- I would take that over what it was like here-since it looks like some long lines. Not saying it wasn't good here... Just looks classic lefts there

 

Fun late afternoon on Delmarva. Clean with winds light offshore, head high on the incoming tide around 6. Got some juicy lefts.

No pics...got out of the water shivering, and with beer on my mind. Tomorrow morning has potential to be really good.