Ocean City Maryland just now. Waist to chest high, light onshore bump/texture but with walled up lefts. sunny and warm afternoon, water just tropical feeling. Mid 70s for sure. The local buoy is saying 74.5. That's pretty decent for the first full day of fall. Is it too early to get hopes up for another winter without frigid water? Yeah I guess it is.
Smacked a few waist to stomach slabs in Belmar today. Nothing too exciting. Wind sucked and there were lots of close outs. Am hopeful for tmrw and Sunday to improve a tad. It's the weekend buoys, get stok3d.
Cape Ann was fun enough on a long board this afternoon/evening. Warm enough still for a spring suite although one guy had his hooded suite (hood down) and ear plugs. Ready for winter I guess. There was too many people at first. it was funny to see this one aggro short boarder getting frustrated when he couldn't get a clean rip on the 2' waves. Crowds suck but at some point you have to figure out how to enjoy it anyways or leave. This guy was not up to the task.
Same...but more rights. I did feel a fall chill (bear backed it) when the sun went down....surfed til dark. Good fun. Tomorrow morning DP should be Bueno...heading all the way down.
Beautiful glassy sunrise today. Scored some fun little waves. My bud got a shark bite on ankle. Bled, no bad damage.
Bummer Betty, glad the bite was only minor. This morning was awesome, glassy waist - chest with some shoulder / head high sets. I rode both my 6'4" Flashback Fish and my 6ft M-80. Both were a blast. Lefts and rights, near close outs but if I was fast enough I could beat the sections, which I did most of the time, these boards fly! It was all about big bottom turns to top turns, pump for speed, roundhouse, snap, spray, re-entry, etc., nothing was off limits today. Shoulders are feeling it but can't stop, won't stop.
Sounds like it was bigger up your way. It was 2' 3' and some 4', all different sizes. Tide was draining out, but it was ton if fun. Valhalla, his wife and his surfing buddy came up. The buddy was really scoring fun rides. Lots of them and grinning like a kid on his birthday. I think my bud stepped on a small nurse shark, or sand shark and it nailed her right near her ankle. She took it in stride. It was a blast out there today though. But the ocean is too warm. Like 86-88F. Freaky.
Pretty good today, surfed way south and it was worth da drive. Nice clean walls smaller early then the sets started filling in the headish range around 2. Good fun. IPAs/fish tacos, rinse, and repeat mañana. Karl is giving us some small kine juice. Dang N winds. Town could be good tomorrow otherwise making the drive again!
SO.MANY.PEOPLE. Was "okay" but nothing special. Today was a zoo and closeout city. "hey there's a storm off the coast let's go sarfing saturday."
I have my kid this weekend so I'm slightly jealous for all you who got out, but only slightly, I love hanging out with my little girl. We went to a well known long left close by our house to flip rocks along the shore and catch little critters and was surprised at how few people were out, and those that were out were sitting real deep and all these great waves were breaking on the inside unridden. Matunuck I'm guessing was a zoo. It looks like this week might be pretty good, I'm starting to jones a little...
Last assignment then off to Montreal mid october to get laid, although my lay off date is TBD so I took all my annual to assure anal. then returning and starting the sweet sweet unemployment train until I leave for peru Definitely a northward surf trip happening pre south america.....straights op?
I'm NOT surfing this weekend. I'm up at my house in PA re-tiling the bathroom. I just evicted the previous douche canoe I was renting it to. I invited my neighbors over for some pork tenderloins on the grill and some Jack Daniels. My neighbors wife has a great set of fake teets. She can't handle bourbon and threw up all over my tile job. One boob slipped out of her top while she puked. I was "moved" by the sight. Going to the Eagles/Steelers game tomorrow then back to NJ. Why am I telling you all this nonsense? No idea.
That's good stuff, Chavey Time better spent today booking surf treks to MEX, CR, MEX again. Winds looked like some shiiiite & not worth the 3 hour gamble drive. 48 on the road bike & gym = getting ready for that next TS, talk to us Betty!
Cool, you still gonna do your unemployment in Oregon? Funny story, a guy I know was telling me in August about how he got skunked on a trip to Tofino, and decided to check the Strait after the ferry ride back. Says it was butt cold and fkn firing at just about every spot off the highway, all on a medium large swell at medium intervals. Totally scores spitting tubes there about 5 days before I went up (and got skunked, naturally). Whatever, I'm over it. But yeah, I'll do a tactical strike with you. Check this out..the knuckle is back bro. The harbor has been pretty damn good lately...today included.
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm yeeeees I will suckle the government tit here in mighty cascadia first And kidrock long live the knuckle and the glory of cascadia!