who here has been surfing this week?

Got some surf boarting in Sat morn. Was in the water for about 30 minutes in fun 2 to 3 and some larger sets until the wind turned and thing went bad, quick! To each his own, but still kind of surprised to see people in 74 degree water in full suits. One guy even had gloves on.

 

got a 3 hr session at cape may yesterday. fun little lefts. sporting the short arm full.

 

been a good couple days...tho wind was sideshore then barely offshore at times. plenty surf of late at least. 9 hours of surfing to much...don't think so...funny, I guess long distance runners / triathletes / swimmers /other pro atheletes shouldn't do what they do either. GO surf when and as long as you can!

 

I wish I had 8 hours to surf. But even if I did, I probably wouldn't. Unless I'm traveling...

Got out yesterday when the wind died, and got a bunch of waves. But the highlight of my day was a wave I wasn't riding...

All day there were birds going crazy in the surf zone. I surfed Friday (? I think) and noticed a lot of spearing, and yesterday they were there all day. Just massive numbers of little fish all moving south. The water was fairly clear, and you could see big, dark clouds beneath the surface, flashing and shifting. And they just kept coming... but nothing seemed to be eating them. Then, just around the time I was thinking that, I got a wave all the way to the beach. When I turned around and started to paddle out, a wave stood up on the outside bar and to my surprise I saw 8-10 rays... sort of cruising in formation inside the wave... Wow! I've never seen that before. Then, sure enough, wings started flapping and slapping the water all around me. I didn't know rays hunted baitfish like that, but I guess they do. Then, as soon as they appeared, they were gone. But it made my day.

Only surfers get to see stuff like that...

 

Exactly. Especially those that get out early.
Those that get out "to be seen" by their shallow friends, see nothing, but, if they do....they soil their wetsuits....

 

Didn't carry out as planned as TS Julia did. Waist high, slow rollers in Friday and Saturday. Went out on the 7'6" LB Friday, and then had a good session on my 7'2" all around funboard Saturday morning for a couple hrs. Did another 90 min session on Sat evening and powered one down early Sunday morning. Wind picked up out of the blue early Sun afternoon, resented going back out Sun evening- only a handful of rideable waves but did get a nominee for my best wipeout this year. Shot me straight down to hell and back and when i head first into - no injuries, just a big ol smile from this tard

 

Grey whales are pretty cool. There's been a pod or two hanging in and directly outside the lineup where I've been this summer. Prettysweet but definitely spookey and humbling when you can practically reach out and touch an animal the size of a school bus, especially when your the only one out.

 

Fun leftovers this morning, a little inconsistent but with a wait there's still a chest high set out there to be had. It was super glassy like it has been the past several mornings. I brought both the Fish and the LB but ended up going with the LB with the tide still being kinda deep. It worked out great, and got some really fast long rides but I kept wondering if I should have gone with the Fish instead, the tweener waves weren't doing it but the big sets were where it was at anyways. Oh well, it was fun to switch it up and on a solid wave too.

 

Saturday afternoon was really fun. Scored it good.

This morning there were some waist high leftovers. I was fairly hung over, and I wasn't going to surf, but felt like it would wash away the HO and it did. This might belong on the medical advise tread, but i would love to know why an hour in clean little waves does what no amount of coffee or other "cures" seem to be able to accomplish!

 

This used to be one of my "goto" HO cures. Even if only a quick dip in the ocean/bay. I think it has something to do with the cool water temps, and getting the blood flowing.

 

Same reason an icy shower or cold compresses on the bean help: shrinks the capillaries in your noggin, allows blood flow without the attendant pain of the hangover & jacks up your adrenaline level, which smashes back the hangover effects.

This is turning into medicale advisemente tread numero 13 in a continuing series.

 

Last week I was paddling out and a pod of dolphins came racing through the impact zone. 10 feet in front of me a wave was cresting as they rolled through it. As I was duck diving the wave I swore one if them was going to nail me, nope. It was very cool to be so close and as funny as it sounds, to have that fear run through my head as I duck dived. Water was also very clear that day and lots of sea life around me!

 

Oh yeah, and I too have turned to mother nature for a hangover cure! Works every time!

 

lol I hope you can see this link: https://instagram.com/p/BKwvslrBaVO/

Glad they didn't nail you.

 

went out this AM. Kinda sick from vegas, but got a handful of waves. One little barrel that let me pop out the back all perfect and schit

I didnt claim it. I should have.

 

was out on Saturday at LB, NY and it was an absolute blast. Some shoulder sized sets came through and was absolute glass. Sun came out and the water felt like a bath.

It almost makes you forget about pumpkin everything and fall's otherwise undesirable qualities!

 

incoming tide on sunday in LB was awesome!

 

Today during lunch. Waist high, a little choppy, but ride-able. No one else out. Air temp mid 70s, water upper 70s. No biting flies.

 

Still some lingering swell out there this morning. Too bad I was catching it right after peak high tide, so it was still pretty deep and wasn't breaking very often. I paddled the LB about a half mile down the beach in one direction and a half mile back and caught a few along the way. Only one or two of them were keepers. It's probably waist+ and peeling right now with a little less water. Too bad work gets in the way of a good session some days. It was a gorgeous morning though, glassy once again and just a picture perfect sunrise. Lately it's been looking a lot more like Fall, if we could just get some cooler temps, that would choice.

 

Nice, I think I like DPs better than evening sessions. It's starting to feel a bit like fall up here. Yesterday morning was a little chilly when the sun came up. Water in Frisco Saturday was perfect temp as was the air temp. I could take this kind of weather all the time....low humidity and 70....