who here has been surfing this week?

Yeah I bet it's awesome this time of year up your way, trying to get my wife on a trip to the OBX in the next 6 months, dunno if it's gonna happen though, we'll see.

 

Pattern change coming this week for us northerners, bring on Fall. I'm prepping.

 

We only get 40 minutes, then the wind, tide f's it all up and i injure myself. Every swell since july. It just seems that way. New MR twin In The Eye Scott drove up to me with 40 minutes of fun waves today. And Chadwick on Tuesday afternoon, Alone again. Naturally. Then i injured myself on a suckout 'left.' Good shin gash and a few serious bruises to foot and leg.

All this after the oncology reports were bad. What a day.

Mixed bag of stoked, injured and bummed.

 

"The oncology reports"....?? Yours?

 

You will get 4 foot chop. High NE winds is why....no glass, nothing smooth, just chop.

 

Post Pics!!

 

Yes. Back to being a patient. I was just getting back to shortboarts after all the troubles ended(so i thought) a couple years ago. Hope and pray this time doesn't shut me down again, or for good for that matter.

Fun 40 minutes of surf yesterday!

 

No pics but i will say he even made the fins and glassed them on, board and fins are his custom design for my unique need and he used the MR templates.

 

Buddy had the "yearning" to go out yesterday evening since he was teaching classes out on the beach all day, even tho i was very skeptical anything was out there. Took some rips at the house tho, went out for some thigh highs at the front beach break. Just us out there as far as the eye could see, but we caught a lot more than i was planning to. It was real shallow, and the rides were short, but it was a good sunset and not much of a strain on the body. Overall pretty good session til it pumps again late in the wknd

 

Dang, hang in there dude. We're pulling for you.

 

This morning was similar to yesterday, a leisure stroll up and down the beach looking for a set wave to break through the deep high tide. Most waves wouldn't break till onshore, but occasionally a waist high set would roll through and had to be in the sweet spot to get it, but those that I got, were plenty fun for a Wednesday morning.

 

Yep. Sure beats flat though. Plus with a NE wind you've got some offshore options in the region.

 

I just walked down to the Wall. Winds are approaching gale force. Wind chop, nothing more.
If the wind slows down a bit, it might be worth looking for a leeward side of somewhere.

 

Some fun, funky, chest high wind swell last night. Mushy but they had some size, some long rights at the point. It put a smile on my face.

 

Thank you, dpsup, i appreciate that, i am weak but ready to face whatever i have to.

 

I'm seconding what DPSUP inked. Damn, man, that is a rough hand that you've been dealt. Hoping you can pull off a Baron Cuda & destroy your cancer to stay on Yee Olde Forume & give us all what fer!

 

Yes.. what others said. Praying for you... His mercy, grace and strength be upon you to persevere through this.

 

Best of luck and and success to you, man!! Keep a good attitude--it DOES help and influence outcomes, asit affects your immune system studies show!!

 

Thank you, Yankee, and all of you. First both hips went nigh on totaled march 2011, then i tried stabilizing until Sandy, which took a heavy toll losing home, possessions and financially, but mostly emotionally, i think we all have post traumatic storm disorder for life, and then this high-grade fibrosarcoma winter 2013, the whole nine, the heaviest chemotherapy broke all poisoning records, the most radiation nearly burnt off my right leg, then removal of the giant crazy weird tumor with my entire femorus rectus, smallest of the quads, so now i have a triceps in my leg where there used to be all four, and then repeated the same chemo after recovering from surgery, then 2014 back to work and surf, job transfer, and all was good. Until yesterday. But i feel great and surfing good waves on this board Scott delivered the other day the first time waxup paddle out and shortboart surf was just the right medicine after the long 75 miles drive home from hospital.

I have been thinking lately how i never would have thought going back to dukestorm and those other sites we used to have, then pain in the ass matt johnson, micah and all that, nj42, that here we are, and this forum exists on such a wonderful level, a primitive internet forum that provides more that twitter, facebook and all that bs, and it is not matt, bill, 42 or anyone else, but the disciplined consistency, and the fervent policing, of yankee!

So yeah, thanks.

 

How can you possible be still alive then?

Best of luck beachbreak.