Money and responsibilities are gay, surfing is not. I'd probably die for surfing hence my line of work.
There is more to this life than surfing for me, but i know for some there's not, and i see it, the unfulfilled longing, yearning, but for the brief moments of exhilaration. Surfing is the most exhilarating and fulfilling recreational activity i know, but it is not enough, there is more to this life than surfing. I surf by myself or with a couple friends, no crowd. Right here yesterday had fun waves alone. Midaugust and july had good surfs in hatteras alone. Emptybreaks are there if you look.
I know some here didn't like it, but a big chunk of 'Barbarian Days' was about the author living that life. Hanging out in Indo with no money, living off rice and greens like a local, etc... Just living to surf while traveling the world.
Me too... thank God. I used to let the yearning run my life, and surfing was the biggest influence on most... if not all... of my life decisions for many, many years. And for many years, I sort of hated my life. It was the wanting... and yearning... the torture of constant searching for more and better that eventually drove me crazy. I made a lot of mistakes and abused a lot of things and situations and people at that time in my life. And while I still get those feelings from time to time, I know it's not good for me in a bigger picture way, and I'm OK with how I live today knowing that. Waves have been here before we existed, and they'll still be here long after we're gone. A lot of life experiences give me a sense of peace, but surfing still gives me the greatest calm and and sense of contentment.
Yes....but that is the catch....you have to look. I did not early on. No matter where we went early in the morning, we were the only ones out, and only a few spilled in later. And it is getting worse every year. But as others have posted, I have more in life than just surfing.
No doubt...you gotta have more to life than surfing. Especially on the EC. I have gone through phases I guess where it was more controlling. You are right on with the anxiety it can cause. Yet, as we desire to get that level of consciousness..."surfing still gives me the greatest calm and sense of contentment", it creates that yearning. Almost naturally. Vaughn, I'm about done with the Barbarian Days book and agree. Those dayz he spent on Maui must have been really cool. He was able to fulfill (I assume) his insatiable desire to surf and take a path that most would not. This gets back to Stank's point regarding those paths we choose (as surfers) b/c whether you admit it or not, it does have a certain kind of control over our sense of judgement in life. Man, I want to surf!
This quote is hilariously self-important. I love surfing but let's not pretend it's anything other than a first world, luxury hobby. And even on that front, free climbers and wingsuit flyers are way, way more committed than 99% of surfers. Leisure pursuits are by definition an indicator of a life without the relentless crushing pressures to provide for yourself and your family that most people in the world face. We're all pretty damn lucky.
Uh, I live in America and I have a relentless crushing pressure to provide for myself and my family. I work two jobs to do it. And yet, I still find time to surf. If you meant "not knowing where your next meal is coming from" type of relentless pressure, well, I've felt that too. Some parts of my life revolve around surfing, a lot of it does I guess. But as LB said, it's now just a portion of who I am. This is the time of year, that for me, the tug of war begins. It's hunting season and we also get steady surf. Gotta put the meat (venison, grouse, and turkey, not my cock) on the table.
I am debating whether to quit surfing and return once more to sailboat racing. Surfing has gotten wayyyy too ghey. I am looking at a J-22 again........
I have a JY15 Barry. 22 ft mast with 2 sails. When its calm I go offshore fishing and when its blowing I sail. All this could not be possible if I was busy surfing.
I used to have a 22ft Catalina, 1981 model, owned it for 15 years. Great boat, and I raced it a lot, class racing. Also raced on a lot of Lightnings and J boats. I liked the J boats the best.
Surfing is the only thing that makes me truly happy...and now that i effed up my knee, it's more evident than ever. I'm gonna be one sorry sack of sh!t when i can't do it any more.
CC- good luck with your season and I hope you fill the freezer full of provisions for the upcoming year! #tugofwarisreal!
haha. #college Try a water fall. Instead of completely cutting off the bottom, poke like 5 holes on the bottom
already happening barry lol. the stoke comes and goes.like right now,no waves,well actually theres some big choppy surf at this moment,but it takes a good day of waves to bring the stoke back.knee high mushers are 'eh and don't bring the stoke or awesomeness feeling.is that what stoke means?lol after a good day of waves u literally got high from the endorphins in ur brain or whatever theyr called,science b1tches.
