Surfed south shore MA choppe for an hour. It was ok but in hindsight, maybe the extra hour in the car round trip to RI was the better call... Sunday looks like a good log day up here. Water getting below 60˚. Time to dig out the boots soon. It's amazing how quickly it drops. Three weeks ago I was in a spring suite.
Late afternoon, surfed for a couple hours till dark. winds lightened but still choppy. Water felt much colder, then again air was pretty dam chilly too. Really felt like fall.
Thanks! Believe me, I've had some luck there in the past. Never really wanted to live out there though, aside from the surf.
Got the last of it yesterday at my local before the tide filled in and killed it. Wished I could have been out 2 hours before I got there. Surfed anyway... and watched the hazy moon rise over the ocean, and the sun set behind me, throwing up a big rainbow into the high, thin clouds. Even though the swell was fading fast, I wouldn't have wanted to be anywhere else in the world at that moment in time.
The chunkiness continued today with some solid 4-6 footers rolling through. Winds actually relaxed to only about 5 knots and it ended up being a pretty fun morning/early afternoon of surf. Going on over a week now of da chunk. But hey, there's waves.
Z - since you brought it up. Glassy goodness today...stripped out of the 3/2 and ended up just trunking it.
Friday at Frisco Pier. Saturday was bigger. Today, the winds backed off enough that the North side cleaned up. Great fun at the Lighthouse!
These morning sessions I've had lately have been unreal. Wish this season would never end. Waist to shoulder high glass this morning now wind is going offshore as I had to leave for school. Fingers crossed it's still good later. Took a quick pic on my phone will try to upload
Hard to get to the beach because of flooding but made it out this weekend. Sandbars had moved quite a bit and tides were crazy because of cape fear river and full moon. Saturday was a washing machine session and drifty as sh!t. Sunday only got out for an hour but it was cleaning up with waist to chest high soft sets. good for longe boarting... 'Twas goode to get wette againe.
Surfed yesterday and am was glassy and fun...around 11am, textured up to choppy...was gonna give it a go later pm but still side shore. Decided to not go and head out to dinner to the grove. Good morning of surfing topped off with a good meal to end the day.
2 hours this morning, glassy, 4-6 ft faces. Loads of massholes in the water after I got out. Had a great session.
After a long mostly flat summer, it seems that surfing season has finally begun here in the Bahamian shadow. I've managed to find a wave of some sort on 10 of the last 12 days and the last eight days straight. It hasn't all been great surf or great surfing on my part either. But it's surf and it's better than no surf at all. Take what you can get. This past week has been big and messy with lots of on/side shore wind requiring a sheltered spot at higher tide. Had some really good rides and also some awesome wipeouts. Would have been better if it was cleaner. Good to surf againe with some folks I haven't seen since some time in the spring. More of the same in the forecast for the coming week. Speaking of forecasts, SwellInfo has been awful in its predictions lately. Just totally off. MSW has called it pretty well. I woke up this morning with my lower back protesting so I'm probably gonna have to take a pass today and end the streak. Live to surf another day.
I was going to go yesterday but I missed a huge buck Saturday at dusk. I came home, hung up the broken arrow on the wall of shame, and drowned out my misery by smashing down most of a fifth of Mr. Daniels. In no condition to surf on Sunday morning, I further piled on my shame by racking leaves and pine needles. Self pity rant over.
For sure. Nice to drive just 15 minutes to surf the mostly uncrowded spots here instead of two hours upcoast. No neoprene for me yet too. Still looking forward to a 50 degree DP sesh after a solid cold front rolls through bringing clean NNE liners with offshores and nobody else in the water except me and a friend or two. Those days are so suite.
Yeah man, i'm looking forward to wearing my new suite, not quite there yet though, water still very warm.