That's why I like jjf so much haha. Can go for a big air then into a big man power surfing turn. Really one of the only pros on tour these days I like. Barry, I'm curious what your thoughts are on bonzers. You've obviously been around the block and don't feed into the gimmicks. But the bonzer being more of your "era", I'm just curious your thoughts.
couldn't agree more,i hate 98% of airs,the 2% is jjf albee layer matt meola and slater.everyone else,not impressing,just wasting good waves to do one boost,but hey that's whats in style lol. but yea I wouldn't call danes surfing ugly lol,thats just...no no no not happening..he knows how to power surf,he can do airs too but that's not why I like him. u don't see much power surfing anymore and its a shame.like when I started surfing I was influenced by the current wct guys like slater lol,bobby fukin Martinez(his talent is an understatement,those that know,know.),dean Morrison,pancho Sullivan those guys can hack.curren will always be the godfather of power surfing,always
They are garbage, imho. Evidence of lousy craftsmanship. Making a board is more than shaping a foam blank into a nice shape. And calling each other moron, stupid, or asshole or similar is tradition on this site. So go ahead, call me moron!!
Bonzers seemed too much of a departure from forward progress, a side street, if you will. But a dead end one. Their fin arrangement, shape were ...meh....One thing I did like, the thicker part of the board was under your chest usually, so it was not a bad paddler getting out in surf of size where the bonzer was useful. I am still convinced that the greatest development in surfing from the "old days" are shorter boards for sure and the thruster set up. They handle much better. Single fin longboards served their purpose in the 60s, so for me, the return to them seems kind of silly, except for really small surf days, when I do use them. They are however, modern versions with 2 + 1 fin set up. Presently, because of my age and waning interest in surfing, my shortest board is a 7'6" Byrne, which the shaper (Mike Baron) did put volume at my chest level to meet my request. One can say it is a "big guy tri", which is the board I usually take to PR--works great there. Next time I go there, I will not bring it back--it is my intent if I see a portorican kid who surfs well on borrowed boards and give it to him or her....... Everybody gets what fits them best.
I am going to poo on your lawn!!! Do you have your little blue doggiepoo pickup bag?? Oh, as for great surfing style, watch Barry Kannaipuni (sp?) films from 1980s etc. when he was out a places like Sunset etc. THAT is style.....just opinion, of course.
I think great, progressive surfing... no matter what era you're talking about... is grounded in what is/was considered radical: putting yourself and your board on the very edge of losing control. Getting into the most critical parts of the wave, standing on the board in a place that's not meant to be stood on, losing an edge, slide-slipping with fin(s) out, nearly falling but recovering... anything that seemed to flirt with disaster, but was pulled off successfully by the rider. But it wasn't just that alone... you had to do it all with style. No flapping and flailing... no hopping up and down... knees and ankles bent just so... a subtle arch to the back... arms and hands natural and relaxed. And I think that's all the same today... except the "edge of disaster" has been pushed waaaayyy down the road. How did that happen? Better athletes, better equipment, and an expanded mindset of what's possible. But one thing that hasn't changed is that style is still a critical component of the aesthetic of surfing. For some, it comes naturally... effortlessly. For others, they have to pay attention to the mechanics of their body and deliberately move in ways that intentionally create their style. And for others... well... they just ain't got it, and never will. I'd say maybe 50% of your local talent are in that middle group. The elite make up the top tier, and the rest of us... suck.
It's interesting he chose pyzel. He's a great shaper. I loved my pyzel to death, for the entire 6 weeks it lasted. Despite being epoxy, I buckled it landed on the deck after kicking out (kooking out really). I got it fixed from a local guy, who said he sees a lot of FireWire/pyzel boards that break, buckle, etc... Shapers must like semi-desposable boards, for job security purposes.
Ok, Here ya go...Just sticking with tradition. Not only are you a "stupid" "moron", but an "asshole" as well.
Watched it last might. a few things stood out: - the conditions for some of the boards were a lot worse than others. Maybe Dane can make sense of how a board would go in overhead barrels by riding it in stomach high slop. - Despite guessing wrong a bunch of times, pretty cool that he can decipher who a shaper might be just from little clues like the nose, rails, and template or recognizing the Chili by the stringer. - About Dane winning a contest at trestles on a Dumpster Diver the woman narrator (whose voice is one level more monotonous than the voice in my GPS system) says - "Dane Reynolds is the reason we all ride boards 2" shorter than we did 7 years ago" uhh...ok. - I thought it was funny how CI sidestepped the political repercussions of an actual review by submitting a bonzer. A 6'0" x 19" x 2 1/4" bonzer! I loved what Dane said about it....felt like they just threw a single fin in a normal shortboard. It looked like it.
it was a fun movie. he still rips. better than 90% of the skipping around you see by most pros. i recommend this to anyone with 30 something minutes to turn their brain off.
