we were there as well. Late afternoon today. those little a-frames were crazy fun. Got some lefts that were so buttery...full roundhouse cutties on the 5'4" Chemistry. Didn't think I'd really be riding this board in mid November, but glad I did. I'm hopin for more of the same tomorrow.
must of been out there with ya...unless you were at the youth campground area (north end)...ended surfing right out in front. got there with just a few out, then it was just me, then the crowd came rolling in...mostly lb'ers.
Yesterday and the day before. Conditions weren't very good, but sometimes it's nice just to get wet. Have yet to regret paddling out. Only two of us were out on both days. Yesterday, it was until almost dark and I could barely make out the swells. My eyes aren't that great anyway. Sorta had hoped to see the moon come up the water. Beautiful sunset though.
Fast little peelers yesterday afternoon... not as good as it was in the morning, but still fun. Bit of a wait between sets, but hollow and belly high when they did roll through. Light offshore breeze kept it clean. Got crowded quickly once school let out.
Got some fun ones in RI yesterday. A few thumpers rolled through. Unfortunately I seem to have forgotten how to surf. Still, a nice day, and anytime you can score some solo waves is a win. I just wish I could get to my feet a bit quicker in that damn 4 mil.
I keep telling youse guys, it's all in the hip thrusters, you need to bang your way into surfing shape. It's the only way.
Yo, it's "bru," not "bruh" Not in my America. The coloreds have tried to bogart the term "bru" from Africkaan Botha-loyalist surfers. Ha, not after January they don't. You guys like the sexual innuendo tease game, huh? Toonces, any problem getting out of your 4-mil? There's a law in the mid-Atlantic and Northeast: If you can't pop-up you are only allowed out from May-September. Jesus, I still have the longboard-fall-on-take-off crowd out around me. Ax Barry he'll tell you. Hey, you don't have Captain America wetsuite do you?
Was out the other day in Belmar. Fun stomach high sets and a West wind all day long. Got a couple long rides in. Looks like tmrw is gonna be small but fun in certain parts of NJ. Going to work on some cutbacks. One skill I'm somewhat lacking. Cheers to Friday buoys
Cape Ann was fun enough this afternoon, though a little choppy. Last time out without gloves this year for sure.
surfline's forecast, seems always off...appears to be chest and bigger on sets...surfline says waist high max. give me a break, even looking at the weather maps, I knew it was gonna be good in am...venting, stuck at fraekn work from sun up to sun down. was gonna try to sneak out for 30 minutes, but we are packed today at work...chit! At least swell info was more in line...kuddos to them. Have fun folks...freakn envious.
Love days like today. Up before dawn (cuz I got stuff to do), paddle out at first light. Sitting there realizing what I thought was waist high is overhead. Had the wrong board but did just fine. Today was pumping again. Makes all the bs I gotta do today bearable. Luv it!
Put my board on car at daybreak, suited up, drove to beach. Direct north Wind was on it, waves were disorganized, cold out. Drove back home, took suit off, put board back on the rack. Back to bed....Zzzzz....Zzzzzzz........