Friend?? Absolutely!! There isn't one person on this site with whom I wouldn't share a beer with. Even the mods!! But you are right.....I am crazy....my wife reminds me of that every time I go surfing in Jan-March time period. Personally, I think she is right. After all, I have caught pneumonia twice after doing so (I was getting over the flu both times, then spiked a secondary fever and ended up on 1 month antibacterial therapy for 1 month each time). But I continue to do so for "conditioning" reasons. Although I will not surf winters immediately after flu ever again (plain stupidity), getting out in the cold does resolve ones mind to a more tolerant position during winter. As you know, winter here are long and sucks. Therefore I will put it to use by using it to make me stronger, if at all possible at my age. But...I am still surfing!! So I will include a recent picture of me, in Fall, getting ready to crouch for the barreling!!
That is a stunning photo, the lighting is breathtaking, and you don't look a day over 35. You ever read that book Surfing Cold Water by Gordon Gordinier. You might enjoy it. It's well written by an older man who is a marine biologist at Mystic. And there is a brief allusion to 9-11-01 that sneaks up on you and takes your breath away. If you read. Most morons read, right?
Happy to hear that! I feel the same way. Though I do think it's funny that in another thread we both offered to buy each other a beer and neither of us drinks! Perhaps a soda pop. Right on, Barry! Keep on surfing! And let's all of us try to put off that aging process as much as possible. Surfing helps a lot in that regard along with a more healthy lifestyle. That picture of you is awesome! I love the color and texture!
Goddam1t...have metard, and sheldonne been gone that long that I need to explain my troll...this place has gotten soft
Thank you, Betty--I will seek out that book. The fellow that took that picture is a nationally recognized surf photog (as well as other photo dimensions) who has had articles in Journals, Surfline...all repeatedly. Fortunately, he is a friend of mine, and kinda shares my sick sense of humor............. Every time he leaves the area to do a shoot elsewhere, the waves get good here for me. I remind him daily off that. Every time I leave the area, the waves get good here for him. He reminds me daily of that!!
surfing is so peaceful in the winter.no crowds,nobody on the beach,just u in the ocean.with billions of fish that can eat u,deworm u lol,and rape you
I always carry this stuff called piss off by ripcurl and I'll drop a little in my legs so that my ankles get soapy and then I usually have no problems afterwards.
Add me to the "in awe" crowd. Barry, that is just fvcking awesome. Great wave, great conditions, great lighting, perfect trim. Just awesome. Kinda puts things in perspective when so many of us thought of Barry as some grumpy old fat guy lol
By posting one picture (that's probably not even him) Barry instantly becomes the most respected guy on SI. Awesome!
No. It is me........and I will admit I was 'reticent" to post it, expecting exactly that response......
Just ribbing you Barry. It's one of the most beautiful and creative surf photos I have seen in a while.
Well thanks, but I obviously had nothing to do with the picture, other than being the Adonis in it. (hahaha) My friend gets all the credit. I don't share his name because it is not my place to do so on an internet forum. It was taken early one morning, as the sun was rising. In fact, I have other photos as well, all taken in the early AM with the sun behind me rising in the East.
Based on your suggestion here, I tried this the last 2 days after surfing.. It works well, and I refer to turning the wetsuit inside on itself at the end of the leg. Makes the suit come over the ankles much easier, even with a 4/3 Drylock this morning. So...thanks!! I have no idea why I did not think of that earlier--it makes so much sense!! So, as you can see, we can teach "old dogs" new tricks!!!
I'm too damn lazy to wake up for a dawn patrol.i wake up 6 days a week at 4 am for work.on my weekends I like to atleast sleep til 10.im more of a dusk patrol kinda duddle.but hey I surf whenever I get to go out,i don't pick the times,its all about the wind and tydes
You live 9/10 of a mile from the beach and you're hopping around in a windy 20 degree parking lot? Moron.
