who here has been surfing this week?

Meh....depends on wave size. The louder the better; it is just noise. Background noise.

 

Anywayzzzz....I had a small wave session today. Thigh high occasional waist, on my longboard (Robert August 8'8" What I Ride, custom made). Had a few good waves, then realized I have "promises to keep, and miles to go before I sleep".
Overall...brief but great session, all by myself in a very known spot.

 

getting a usually-heavy spot without the crowds is the best, feels like you're cheating the system

 

The forecasts were wrong today. For a change, conditions were better than predicted. Instead of the expected short period chop with strong NE winds there was some mostly clean swell with light offshores. Found my buddy already out surfing at our favorite sand bar. Nobody else on the beach much less in the water not even down at the pier. We shared some non-stop waist-plus liners for about two hours. Eventually the wind picked up and clocked around and the low tide finished it off. Most fun session I've had in some time.

Life is goode. I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

Swell bumped up late. Fun rippable chest high and clean. Surfed till dark which is like 4pm now, which is a bummer as the swell was just starting to fill in. Gonna peak overnight, hoping for leftovers tomorrow. I thought we were gonna get c0ck blocked by Nova from this low, but it wound up just before moving north out of our swell window.

 

Everything is easy until there are consequences.

 

As feared, swell peaked last night at 7' @12 sec, which would have been sweet as, but it left as quickly as it came with just some dribblings this morning. Curse these long nights, I need some swell vision night goggles.

 

There are no consequences......

 

Got out for some long board waves on Thanksgivng. Then was able to meet up with fellow swellie formerly known as Tlokien for a couple hours of long boarding Friday. It was good to get out.

 

I was out this AM...had some great lefts at daybreak. The tide rose and we lost the bottom , and waves went mush around 7:30AM. Still had a great session with shoulder high sets, offshore winds. I was out on my Byrne; trying to get reacquainted with it, as I will travel with it soon to the land of "mo betta and mo' steepa waves".

 

Tell that to the reef.

 

Reefs do not bother me--I grew up surfing on them, diving on them, boating around them, sailing near them, etc.

 

That storm between Cape Cod and Nova Scotia deepened nicely and threw back a pulse. I'm hoping to catch some of that in the Delmarva later. Buoys showing it, although further south than you obviously less of it for us.

 

The swell bump will last about 8 hours if it gets down to you. Have yer boards waxed and ready, and hopefully it will not come in overnight like it did here.

 

Yeah this was a quick pulse. I just got out of the water and sure enough the incoming tide late afternoon brought long thigh-waist high lines, carrying a good bit of water so when they hit the sandbar they stood up and walled. Perfect for long fast longboard trimming. Super fun session with a quarter of the people there would have been if it had hit Thursday - Sunday.

Now a shot of south wind swell is on deck for mid week.

 

Was out after work today until almost dark off Dam Neck. Was the only one in the water. Nothing remarkable, but it had been 9 days, so it was good to get wet. Heard evening colors from the loudspeakers on the base. Water temp around 55, air 52. Supposed to be in the 70s with some rain tomorrow.

 

Been at least head high, but most days 2x OH + since my fire season ended. Minus a week trip to montreal Ive been in the water at least 2 hours everyday, (4 or 5 if the winds have been right and its clean) for the past month.

Got some thick glassy overhead barrels today and finished off a 5 hour session where the wetsuit-piss stench is so strong that it resonates from your skin into your clothing post sesh.

Oregon is the land of good waves beer and weed. 3 dollar grams on special at my local dope store.
forcast says more offshore winds and big long period swell for at least the next week into the indefinite future. Bouys 18 feet at 19 seconds, no wind tonight into tomorrow afternoon.

gotta love America.

 

I got 2 sessions out of it though; second one was very early AM....

 

Yea, I get frustrated sometimes, but then I remember, it sure beats flat.

Similar set up this week. Right now models are saying, nope, but a slight tweak in the set up of these lows and and we're in business.

 

What is frustrating for me is it seems that whenever there is a decent swell, there is a crappy wind turning the waves to sh1t. Surfing windows are narrow.