who here has been surfing this week?

Global warming

 

Okay. I will then blame Al Bore......

 

God Bless America and
damn bro, you are the si hero, livin the dream and wasting no time. Keep the communiques rolling in.
Peace and waves! and rinse out the wet suite dude before you attract a school of piss loving bull sharks (if they have them up there, maybe lost, looking for good chiba, swimming up stream in search of weed and fish and other bull sharks and chocolate stuffed seals and stuff... ).

 

yes, this tread is awesome, always gets me motivated when I'm not surfing.

 

A head nod and a smile was given to me by a grom on the paddle out after I got a sweet little nug the other day. Made a mundane session a nice go out.

Surfed chunky chest high windchoppe today with the crew after a dog day at work. Life is goode.

 

Yup good times amigo. And you were smart enough to skip the chopped up pounding on Sunday,

 

Got out this evening in some waist high short period SE choppe with a friend who I actually met through this here phorumme. He has since become an abandonner of said phorumme. Short rides with the lowish tide but still goode to be in the soup. The soup is still cozy at ~80*F too. Gonna try again in the am around high tide.

 

double overhead close out barrels in the morning. only guy out at a particularly sharky and normally crowded spot. 3 hours in the water till the wind turned slightly onshore. Hit the skatepark after with my new cruiser wheels which did well in the concrete bowl. Stoked its the first day its been dry enough to skate in 3 weeks. Went back to the harbor for another session, this time worse and not as glassy with 6 guys out. Got a few more, and one super memorable barrel where I airdropped into the pit so hard my stomach hit my throat, looked up to see a dark cavern descending upon me and got thrust all the way to the sand by the weight of the water. Fun times on the south coast. Snapped a photo driving to the spot of the raw ocean energy along the highway at a vista point. No cameras at actual spots. Think the bouy was 18 at 19?

 

Trev, is that Haystacks? If not no need to give info.

 

Damn dude I haven't seen the sun in at least 3 weeks. 28 inches of rain in October and over 20 this month, could spell trouble for this area. Pretty good sign that La Nina is probably iin full swing.

 

na not even a real spot is like a turn out off the highway. you could surf it if you wanted to i guess, I only would if it was small. You can't really tell but those mush blobs are like 20ft or bigger

 

Long rippable waist to chest high rights with just one other guy out this morning. warm air, fog, no wind.

Good waves to work on connecting cutback to cutback while holding some speed.

 

Meh. Not so great this morning. Just VAS washing machine conditions with a wicked south to north drift. Long paddle out and impossible to maintain any position in the big choppe. Got 3 or 4 mediocre waves in an hour and a half. Good excersize though. More power choppe on tap for this weekend. Whoo Hoo! Surf what Mother Ocean gives ya.

 

what is "VAS"?

 

Victory at Sea.

 

Derp a derp, I can't believe I didn't know dat

 

It happens lol

 

Today it was lunch break at the Dam Neck break. Air temps were nice, in mid to upper 70s. Water 55. No more than waist high, but rides could be had for those who were patient. Nice workout. Only two of us out there plus some pelicans and passing dolphin. The old, raggedy 4/3 soot has seen better days. Eagerly awaiting the new 5/4/3.

 

More big long period clean waves today. Bit smaller then yesterday, longer waits between the sets but still firing.

Average day is I wake up, and choose to drive either 45 minutes north checking every spot along the way (one about ever 5 miles) or do the same thing south. Today I choose north and scored a few hours in the water . Lots of overhead closeout barrels again but today offered more air sections and the occasional long liner. One fun one where I dropped into the barrel, and pumped my ass off as the oncoming section rushed towards me, in the process of closing out, and the two collided as I jumped out the back. I cleared the gap between the two just in the nick of time. Crazy how springy the water can be.

 

At one of my favorite beaches in cnj this morning. Great little waves, some bigger sets. Two lefts that keep replaying in my mind, blew most of the waves though gotta get used to all the wetsuit weight again. Used one of the two boards I fixed up, felt great using a real shortboard again. I'll try to post those ding repair pics tonight. Board I used was actually from a fellow si member
Feel like I was relearning how to surf because of the two weekish flat spell and all the gear on now