It is flat here. But I am happy it is flat. You see, so many got new boards, new suits etc for Xmas. And now they cannot use them during their vacations. Awwww.....so upsetting. Back to school ya farking rug rats!!!!! No waves for you!!!!
Just got to the North Shore for a month after being at Nazare for the comp. Then off to Teaupoo for a couple weeks.
NICE! Enjoy! Surfed 3 days in a row for the first time in quite a while. 4 hours or so on Christmas. Had to drive a little bit for it and had to cut it short due to obligations for dinner, but it was a fun time! Nice and sunny out, not too cool either. Had a couple hours that were longboardable down in Cape May. Not the greatest conditions by any means, but better than nothing and a great way to cap off my 3 day weekend/Christmas weekend.
this is the exact predicament i'm in right now. missed the waves over the wknd for xmas. New Wetsuit is sitting at the post office for pickup but they open from 9-4pm and i work 8-5pm. they weren't open yesterday when i had the day off. now, i gotta hope they are open Friday when i have the day off. got a new longboard, and no waves are predicted for hours and hours from where i'm located- which kinda screws my plans of ditching town to surf for new years. i'm not upset though, just disappointed
Surfed Long Beach for a bit yesterday. It was chilly and my suite was leaking like the Titanic, but still great great to get out there. A few fun left, waist high or so. Darn east wind messing things up though. It's funny, when the water is warm I'll walk and walk until I find a stretch of beach where there's not a soul in sight. When it gets freezing out, I'd almost pay to have someone out there with me to make sure I don't wuss out and head in too early!
High tide made for a slow session but there were a few big sets that broke through the deepness. Chest - Head on the big ones and they had some juice behind them. There were some A-frames early on but after I got a really good one it went lull for a while but then I got another. Another lull and it was time to go, I took a close out air drop and rode to shore to finish the session. Not too consistent but the ones I got were amazing.
Got to surf Uppers with my buddy & only a handful of other guys out on Christmas Morning. Fvcking Cold! 36 degrees and off shore wind. Got in front of the house (Mission Beach) the past 2 days at waist to chest & It looks like the next 2 days should be fun as well!
Sell all your gear. There will never again be a swell anywhere near you. Never. Take up extreme knitting. Have a "knit off" with your new knitting circle. You will never need condoms.....
Solid chest to head high waves all afternoon, with offshore winds... and temps in the 60's!! What a great day to have off from work... Radly was ripping... as were a few other dudes, in what turned out to be way better than expected. Size wasn't epic, but it was freak'n SQUARE. Tons of barrels. My best wave of the day was one I wasn't sure I'd make, but turned and went anyway, figuring if I took a beating, how bad could it be on a 4-5' day. I took off on an angle to increase my odds, and ended up with a smooth, fast entry into a long, racy wall. I pulled in tight to the face and lowered my stance just as the lip pitched out ahead of me. Board chattering through the tube section as my gloved hand skimmed across the face. I came out of the section low, then pulled it up under the lip again for another barrel... same chattering speed line through the pinching keyhole. I kicked out on the inside knowing I just got the best wave I'd get all day. When I walked up back up the beach for another drift, I paced it off just to see how long a ride it was... 145 yards. South swell magic...
Looked sorta fun but weak on the outer banks today. I opted to get some work done. Nothing like you describe LB. Sounds killer!!!
I'm not surprised it was weak on the outer banks for this little pulse. Super south angled swell that probably kind of passes right on by the NE facing spots. It actually got really fun mid afternoon in Maryland and air temps were in the 60s so no complaints here....got a fun 2 hour session. cell phone snap before paddling out. The set waves were maybe a foot bigger.
Very true Mitchell. Had a bit SE in it but still produces weak surf in town....rodanthe and salvo pick up southerly swell better but was not worth the drive. Cool pic btw.
I surfed somewhere in NJ today. I got pitted somewhere in NJ today! Glad to read these awesome stories boys. Keep shredding.
Awesome afternoon bro and great to see you.I knew when I saw You paddling out on a fish I made a good decision grabbing the diamond fish Glad to here you made it out of one of those racey little bazztidz. I didn't make it out of any barrels tonight. Hit the sandbar A lot! Sooo shallow. Love how that fish turns with the quad setup. Warm ,good,and fast! Oh and just so you know that dude I was with is xJohnnyUtahx! We both agree ,you rock Legend Status!!
You got that right, brother. Bounced off the bottom a bunch of times. Made two barrels... got pounded on about a dozen. Tonight I feel like I lost a kick boxing match. LOL! Oh well... nothing some Jameson and couple of Advil won't fix.