Are you progressing or regressing in your surfing right now? What specifically are you doing to progress? If you're regressing, what is the reason (if you know) and what are you going to do about it? I ask because I have progressed exponentially in the past year and it's really the result of having access to consistent surf and then of course my commitment and desire. I feel like the consistency of surfing regularly for a little over a year took all of the struggles I had for the past 20 years of surfing off and on and wiped them out and put me back on track to where I feel I should have been, had I of grown up here. I'm not saying i'm really good at surfing, because I still have a looooong way to go before I would feel comfortable saying that. I just look at where I was before this past year and where i'm at now and it's night and day. It's been hard battling back from recurring shoulder injuries that set me back for weeks at a time and it seemed like I wasn't able to ever get over that hump before hurting it again. But I just have the attitude that it doesn't matter and i'm going to continue on. I have been better at protecting my shoulder on wipe outs and when duck diving larger waves. I remember last year I paddled right back in on a big day due to this issue. Once after recovering from a shoulder dislocation I paddled out on a 6-8 foot day and I duck dove a big close out and my shoulder popped out and then popped back in, it allowed me to get back to shore but it kept me from going after it that day. I feel like i'm at a point now where I can get back out on a day like that and be OK, I'm just praying my shoulder holds up because I miss surfing waves that are well over head. Within the last 6 months I'd say something clicked for me and It's like i'm suddenly capable of all the things I ever dreamed of doing when I was trying hard to progress but was living inland and was a weekend warrior. I'm surfing a board shorter than when I was 16 years old and it feels great. I can go even shorter now too if I wanted, it's like a whole new world of surfing is opening up before my eyes and I want nothing more than to paddle out, againe, and againe, and againe. I'm rambling I know, just some thoughts I had, feel free to do whatever you want in this thread.
Spending more time at a different spot whenever it's available tryin to meet barrelle Pretty simple, I think. I once was losing stoke cause I was going to the same spot with the same bort all the time...I think lbcrew put it simply...change bort and/or change spot and see progress It twerks
haha! Stink bug + twerk describes half the people in the lineup. most of them arent making sections either. But yeah backside pumping is ugly but necessary.
Not regressing or progressing. I've reached a Plateau. One I'm very comfortable on. I no longer feel the need to progress. I've reached a state of Zen-like satisfaction with my surfing. Are there many others surfing better than me? Yep. Are there many others who don't surf as well as me? Yep. In my universe, I'm right where I want to be. "The board does not hit back" Bruce Lee
Right on dude. Not a bad spot to be in. I wouldn't say I go in the water to put pressure on myself to perform or progress but I have always wanted to see how good I can get. I knew it was just a matter of repetition. I had a long road to get to where i'm at today so I just look back and reflect. It's a very satisfying feeling accomplishing something that seemed so hard for so long, I have so much appreciation for the journey. It's what keeps me paddling out. I am very comfortable with where i'm at as you say, but i'm not done progressing. I feel like I have a lot more potential to unlock. The next phase for me is going to be getting into prime shape. Need to lose the little bit of belly fat, maybe 15lbs and get more dedicated to cardio out of the water. Hitting the bag more, etc.,
Regressing. Reason is I post too much on this here God forsaken site!!! And my wife grabs my pj collar as I get out of bed, and yanks me back in!! Damn french girls...is that all they want??!!??
At my age... coming up on 53... I'm struggling to maintain my level of performance, or at least slow the decline. Chasing "prime shape" is relative to your age... even the most elite athletes in the world decline with age. The trick for me is being in the best shape I can be for my age. Fortunately for me, I've got pretty good genes, and keeping in relatively decent shape hasn't been very difficult. But I'll agree with Chavez... and ask the bigger question... does it matter? It used to matter to me that I continually progressed. And I'd say my progression ended somewhere in my early 40s. Seeing that, I've been able to accept my skill level is what it is, and the only thing that continues to matter to me is how SATISFIED I am. One question I've asked myself over the past decade or so is... what will it be like for me when I show up on a big day and say to myself, for the very first time in my life... "Nope. I can't do it." Will I be filled with sadness? Question my identity as a surfer? Will it torture my soul and destroy a part of me, never to be restored? Or... will I be at peace with it? Accept it without question or remorse? I won't know until that day actually comes... and most certainly one day it will... for all of us. But when it does I just hope I can live in the present moment, not long for the past, and not resent that my spirit may be willing, but my body will not.
your pj collar hahahah really barry tell me you got the Spider-Man motif cause you sure aint wearing the superman outfit or she be begging you to get out of bed. o barry
I went with the Mickey Mouse motif....who wears Spider Man anymore??...that is so yesterday!! o bagus....you are slipping on being a fashionista!!!
Yikes...by this time of the year up here that's over with...sprinkle a little so called pow on them thar hills and and they all leave...it was me and two others out today and it was goode - chest high and fun (well at least until the wind picked up and the tide came up)
Injuries can be a downer though dpsup...think I'm finally gonna get my lefphhh shoulder cut open this coming surfe seasone...heal by next winter. I keep waiting for it to fall of but it just won't