I worked today so didn't surf..but I woke up around 4 am and been up since,warm as fuk,and the wind was blowing real hard.normally when u hear the wind blowing that hard real early u know theres going to be some good waves.thats how I remember it on doomsday swell. so I checked the cam once at work,looked pretty good and nobody was out.seemed like one of those pop up swells where if u don't live close to the ocean you would've never known
Got out for about an hour of surprisingly fun thigh to waist high longboard waves in moco this morning... thought there was only about a 30% chance it would be rideable, but very pleasantly surprised. Bummed that I missed yesterday afternoon due to work... dawn patrol yesterday was still fun, but not comparable to what I've heard and seen about later in the day. Seems like four or five swells in a row now where the optimal window has been in the afternoon...
Another slow but fun high tide session this morning. I only was able to snag a few with the time allotted and the long lulls between sets but I managed to get some fun in before work. Still pushing the chest high range and I bet it's a blast about now...
Another clean but slow morning of waves. High tide spot was breaking but long waits between sets. There were 3 waves that were legit though. Chest high liners, pretty much point and go, near closeouts but was fast enough to make them with big bottom turns and then it was all about racing the wall before it got me. Water still warm, air warm, sunrise majestic, water was sheet glass with very light West winds. Good way to start the morning off!
been funnnnnn getting in the water today and tuesday (tuesday afternoon in slake you couldnt not get barreled). falling in love with surfing for the 29852856836584th time. oh and dat sunset today yeew merry christmas!
Brrr! Winter came to Florida. Yesterday was brutal so skipped it. Couldn't skip another day so we arrived well after sunrise, letting the air warm up to 60.... The first hour was very light breeze making it feel warmer than it was. Ocean chilled down to about 73+. Who cares that the waves were chunky, filled with sideshores, rips moving around, short interval, knee to waist high. You know the conditions were poor when there are only five in the water on a Saturday. Starting Any day in the water with the crew is a good day. Got just one ride, but it was good enough to be grateful for enduring a Florida winter day. Rumor is that winter in Florida is over by tonight,
[QUOTE=Betty;435396 The first hour was very light breeze making it feel warmer than it was. Ocean chilled down to about 73+. Who cares that the waves were chunky, filled with sideshores, rips moving around, short interval, knee to waist high. You know the conditions were poor when there are only five in the water on a Saturday. Kidding?
Today was a great way to start 2017. At dawn there were these clean peelers, thigh with waist high sets, and it was warmer out too, making it a pure delight, The cam shows the action at the jetty, so one might've been deceived this morning since nothing was breaking by the jetty. There were two peaks firing north of the jetty, There was a nice crowd of about 20 after the first hour, friendly vibe, not crowded. And 8 of them were my tribe of women surfers. As Valhalla says, I feel sorry for people who don't surf.
o betty, nice way to start the new year! Sounds like I should feel sorry for myself for not coming up like we did last New Years day but the forecast just didn't look all that great. Perhaps next weekend. Now I'm gonna go try to ride some small wind choppe like I did yesterday. Haven't had much in the way of clean swells down here
First time in years my hangover did not prevent me from surfing on new years day. The waves were not much in Ole Delmarva but managed a few on the LB. No complaints here.
Nice leisure day at the beach today, rode the LB and relaxed with my wife on the sand, something I don't do often. It was beautiful day, warm enough to skin it. Water felt cool and refreshing. Waves were soft and slow but a waist high set came through every so often making it worth the wait. Mostly just a good day to relax and unwind. I about fell asleep it was so nice. Great start to 2017!
Got a few fun hours in at Le Belmar. Started off as a waist high day, occasional stomach sets and then tapered down to occasional thigh sets by end of day. A bunch of fun rights were to be had on this S. swell. I logged it and got countless long rides. My buddy was filming. Should have some good photos for later. Can't wait for some E. or NE. swell though. I'm itching to go frontside... Happy New Year guys
Work obligations (as per usual) kept me from getting out today. But Wednesday looks good, I just hope I don't have a 15 hour sleep deficit by then.
This past summer was as flat as can be. This past Fall was as flat as can be. This winter has been as flat as can be. A lot of Xmas gifts (boards, wet suites, etc) are in closets, yet to be used. "Global Warming" advocates can "eat my fuk"!! They are morons. Al Gore is the Supreme Moron of all times (he promised huge storms, big waves,etc). The only persons more moronic than Al Bore are the Nobel Prize awarders, for having given that con-man plagiarist a prize. Rant over. Now, can we please have some waves here. This is getting widiculous........
The Newport cams looked pretty good on New Years day, but no way was my head letting me get in that cold water. I'm surprised you're not getting more surf up there Barry. I know we have different exposures, but still. It hasn't been epic down here, but it certainly hasn't been flat, especially if you're willing to drag a log out there.
Surfed for 4hrs today, it was mediocre waist - chest, the tide was meh most of the session, wind was light though, so there was that. It was a peaceful morning as I had the place to myself. Rode the LB first then switched to my SB as it improved. Had more fun on the SB.
All of my friends who have been surfing here with me for decades agree....2016--worst year ever and by far. 2015 second worse. Last 2 years have really been sucky compared to previous decades. Law of averages I suppose. There were a few good days, but very few......