Was out yesterday at my usual spot. Waves were waist+ and what I'd consider great conditions. Tide was dropping when I got out and just seemed to get better as the session went on. I stayed out for just over 2 hours, which is long for me in a 5 mil. It was one of the those days where I kept telling myself 'okay, one more wave and I gotta go', and then an hour went by and I was still out there. Anyway, every other guy or group that paddle by caught a few waves and eventually said to their buddies 'this spot isn't as good as the last one' and was gone within a half hour. This happened four times and three of the groups were riding similar boards as me. I didn't mind being I basically had the spot to myself, I was just confused. Mind you, I was consistently catching long rights into the beach and really fun and fast lefts. It was the most fun I've had out there in a long time. Maybe I just have the natural ability to be able to make the most of my situation or I'm an idiot and there's a far better break near me that I haven't seen in the 15 years I've been in the area. Anyone else ever feel this way or see this happen?
I do my homework beforehand and have two spots picked out depending on what it looks like when I get there. I don't waste much time spot checking. Once I pick my spot, that's it usually, i'll surf till tired or run out of time. I could care less if someone up the road is getting it slightly better than me if i'm having fun. Although, I've got the place dialed in to know pretty much the best spot for the day depending on my window of time that i'm going. Sand reconne + local spot awareness + experience + lots of water time = knowing where to surf and when.
My mantra is never leave waves to find waves. This applies to moving to another spot that I think is better/heard was better/was at earlier and it was better, moving to a different peak that looks better from down the beach, waiting to paddle out because I think conditions will improve later in the day, or letting a wave go by (except for maybe the first of a clear set) because the one behind it looks like it might be better. Seems like 9 times out of 10 when I violate this rule I get burned. On a mediocre day I may drive around for a long time looking for a worthwhile spot, but if it's even decent, I've got one or two spots in mind based on forecast/report/tide/wind/swell direction etc., check the one I think is most likely to be good, and if it looks good I'm on it. Over time I've learned to completely ignore the voice in my head saying "you should just check x or y other spot, might be bigger/cleaner/better tide/less crowded/longer rides/whatever." I mean yeah, it's probably better somewhere else, but who's to say I'll even get it right if I spend an extra half hour driving around checking? It's just as possible the waves overall will get worse, and even if they don't, I already don't spend near as much time in the water as I'd like and that's an extra half hour I could've been surfing.
To be fair, most of the spots I grew up surfing in deal have been destroyed for the time being, so there's less temptation to drive around looking when a lot of my favorite spots are gone.
If you are having great rides at one spot, why abandon it?? Maybe the tastes of others are not similar to yours?? Maybe others say that to be perceived, however falsely, as more "core" than observers?? Enjoy your present moment. You cannot relive it.
I can almost always make the best out of a situation. One of the last times I was out, 25 mph side shore winds, waves breaking every where. Paddled out anyway for about an hour and a half. My buddy and I were the only ones out. Actually had some fun rides and got some ocean time. The term - had fun!
I'm gonna steal that one, BC. Words of wisdom. But to answer the OP, no... not really. I've got my go-to spots for every swell/wind/tide combo, and have the crowd factored in fairly well for each spot. Still... there are days that surprise me. Either way, I figure for every mile I drive, that's time in the water I won't get back, and waves missed. I usually make a calculated choice, and stay there and make the most of it.
I agree with everyone. I have my 2-3 spots I check most days. When its pumping I can usually count on the spot nearest up the street and deal with the slight crowd. I just couldn't believe I was catching such good rides and watching them get some good ones too and they were leaving to find better waves. High standards I guess
In the summer i tend to park it at the beaches i like and make the best of what there is around me. When theres real waves or it gets colder (like now) i am pickier and have my handful of favorite spots around here. I tend to overthink it when the waves are mediocre or worse
Its always perfect at Kelly Slades wave pool, bros. You just have to punch a few 13 year olds in the nose to let them know you are serious about not waiting in line.
You don't know me so don't pretend like you do. I really don't give a f*ck what anybody else is doing, ever.
Thanks for the grammar lesson, Mr. Peabody. I've noticed quite a few errors in your posts as well. If we want a Grammar Nazi around here, we'll ask for a *real* female with a *real* degree...not some pseudo-intellectual with a tuck job.
I agree with absolutely everything everyone had posted. Especially the last few directed at Flo. But seriously. Everyone nailed it so far. But I'll add this... 1) i think sometimes guys like to pretend like they are pros. Instead of surfing they would rather drive around and pretend like they are exploring some unknown coast. 2) for me personally, i can break LI down into three areas. West Central and east. Like others have mentioned, I'll go to certain spots for certain conditions. But let's say conditions call for me sticking to central LI. How much better can the spot down the road really be? Not like my spot will be 2 ft while down the road is overhead. Sure, there are spots that are deeper/shallower so on a high tide the spot down the road (shallower) could be breaking while the other (deeper) isn't. But on tides that work for both spots...it's the same wave man. When i hear guys say it's better 5 minutes up the road i just laugh. Sure the break might have a diffrent name, but let's face it. It's the same damn stretch of beach.
