I hate that too. I always like to make my last wave a decent one. This past Sunday was a great day but at the end I got caught inside and instead of getting out and walking up the beach for an easy paddle out, I exhausted myself by trying to paddle straight out through an endless stream of foamballs. Finally gave up and caught a whitewater reform in for my last wave. Just a disappointing way to end an otherwise great day.
If it weren't for work I would have been more patient and got the one I was looking for. But then again, I probably would have stayed out for 3 more hours if that were the case and would have gotten the best window for tide / wind. Still a gorgeous morning though, just being in the water felt good. I finally wore my new 3/2 wetsuite for the 1st time since I bought it months ago. I didn't need it but was tired of looking at it hanging in the closet.
I hear ya. Take what you can get and enjoy every moment in the water. I had other commitments on Sunday as well otherwise I would have rested a bit and gone for another round. Just disappointed I couldn't end things on a more solid note. I too wore my 3/2 fullsuite on Sunday for the first time but it was needed. My buddy actually wore a hood. Said he'd rather look like a kook than be cold. He did look like a kook.
Sunday was a bit more cold, so that makes sense, but a hood? lol At least he knew he looked like a kook. I agree with him though, would rather be comfortable.
Nice edit (not mine) of last Sunday's swell. [video=vimeo;198751240]https://vimeo.com/198751240[/video]
Decent little longboard waves this morning, SI forecast pretty much nailed it with the 3 ft and clean forecast that they've had up for the past couple days (noting this since today's forecast specifically was mentioned in the SI forecast tread). Little too deep with the full moon dead high tide though, even at a spot that typically works well at high tide. Got a few fun cruisers, but not enough power or distance from shore to do much beyond stand there and ride down the line for a couple seconds. Not sure where surfline is getting their 3-4 and fair to good report from, I'd call it more like 2-3 and fair, but that's more of a side note than a complaint. Beautiful morning, nice sunrise, and was actually a little too hot by the end of the session in a 5/4. The 53 degree air made the change out afterward feel like summer or early fall. Hoping to sneak out for a quick session at lunch if the swell hangs around, could be pretty fun with a lower tide. Nothing epic, but a nice change of pace this time of year, when it seems like the vast majority of days are either big and hollow (not that I'm complaining about that!) or dead flat and freezing with 30 mph offshores.
Clean, chest hi at DP on Folly. Slow, lil sideshore angle. Cool getting in the water and the moon being the brightest thing out in the sky, out of the water it's the sun shining high in the sky. My first 30 min out was a debacle (blame the board), but i had a few better towards the end - mostly lefts. Ended with a goofy floater ride in on the HogMolly 7'2". It was getting warmer and would've loved to stick it out there, but there's some possibility there should be some ripples this wknd
Waist high today in NH. Second time I get out in 3 days. But winds offshore are strong, made it a nuisance. But, have a few good waves, and now I am waiting for stock market to open.
Went straight to my favorite spot this morning and was stoked on what i saw so didnt check anywhere else. Saw a great set at the next beach down and ran down to spend some time there. Too deep and inconsistent, paddled back to first spot and got some fun ones. Id call it stomach to chest high with some better sets. Mostly clean, Wishing i brought my 6'3" single fin cause i had the lib tech, underestimated how deep it would be Hoping for something after school
Yep. And for a relatively small day--winds are blowing over 35mph as a front is moving in, bringing, unfortunately, cold winter air again. But, I asked for it; I decided to stay here in retirement instead of moving to warmer weathers. Mea culpa, mea culpa!!!
[video=youtube;KCcXqFCMSbo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCcXqFCMSbo&list=PL35229973D3333467[/video]
It's a lot harder for me to surf small waves with strong offshore winds than it is to surf large waves with strong offshore winds. The bigger the waves, the less the wind affects wave catching... I think. It would have to be pretty freakin' perfect for me to go out in waist high surf with gale force winds.
Super fun DP at first light in S. MoCo. It was a consistent chest high swell with occasional shoulder height. The little bit of E. in the swell made for some really fun lefts. Worked a peak all by my lonesome. Best session I've had all year. Yewww.
Finally, they weren't huge, but glassy and fun. No one else at the usually spots so I hope the other gulfsters got some, I know my tank was on empty. Hopefully some more early tomorrow
Had a fun time with the crew this morning, despite the conditions, ... 4-6' medium interval 20+mph onshore, you get the picture. Squally rain which was cool, ...water was warm 74ish, warm 70F air. Waves were big chunky messy but some really skilled non locals were scoring some long rides. So, my rides were nothing to envy. But, it sure was nice being out there in the wild with friends. My friend asked "Why are you going" when I told her how bad it might be, and I said, "It's what I do". WOW! I just noticed Peajay started this tread exactly two years ago. Now it's legendary. I miss that guy.