who here has been surfing this week?

It's been a good stretch of surf this week, and looks like the whole East Coast has been pumping. We had some clean juicy long period energy yesterday, head high, OH sets at times, and really thumping. You can feel the difference with a longer period swell, the waves really draw off the bottom, so much more water moving. Only downside is that they were walling up a bit where I went out, but so many good rides.

Prepping for this week.

 

o bagus, it's a very secret state park by an inlet in St Lucie county. Only several thousand know of it and fewer than a thousand turned out Saturday.

We arrived Saturday just as the sun came over the horizon. Very cool. Conditions were like Betty described, waist to chest and fairly clean with just the slightest breeze. The longer period swell picked up (head high or so) as the day went on and so did the offshore winds. I always love the shower of spray coming off the back of the wave. I got a reasonable quantity of really fun rides and at least as many rides that were terminated on terms not of my choosing. People were talking aboot closeouts but we all know that is due to slow surfers of which I am one. Finding a decent shoulder was key to getting a ride lasting longer than two seconds.

Water and air are still stupid warm, 70s and 80s. I donned a springsuite but could very well have trunked it. Seems like we aren't getting winter this year. It was less crowded than I expected for a weekend with a solid swell but it did get a bit thick later on. I witnessed some interesting transgressions. There was also plenty of wildlife. Good sized spinner sharks were popping up all over the place even right in the middle of the lineup. Fun, fun.

o betty, thanks for the compliment. Remember, even a blind squirrel still finds an acorn from time to time. But yeah, I continue to progress I suppose. Also you and your crew, along with many other cool folks we've met there, are one of the reasons we enjoy going there so much besides the surf. Such a good positive vibe. I'm also glad you didn't throw rocks at us from the clubhouse this time.

Life is goode.
I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

Yesterday was fun in MoCo. 2-3ft with occasional 4. All this E swell has me hyped. Lefts for days on end. Worked a Jetty with a couple of other dudes. Warm air and water wasn't bad at all. The clarity was very clear yesterday too. Probably the calm winds. Caught plenty of solid ones and pulled into a few mini barrels that I didn't quite come out of.

Getting myself prepped for this bday swell the ocean is throwing at us in the Mid Atlantic in a couple days

 

Saturday. Chest high fun and pretty glassy.

 

Waist high junk this morning, but yesterday was super fun. Not much in the size department, but clean.

If you look around a bit there have been some sandbars working that usually don't have much to offer. Like 29 said, all this east swell has shifted things around a little bit. I'd guess maybe 4 out of the last 5 swells we've had have had at least some East in them, if not just straight up east.

The next pure south swell should be interesting...

 

I put my board on the car.
I drove to the beach, 2 minutes.
I took my board off the car.
I went surfing.
I put my board on the car.
I drove away from the beach. 2 minutes.
I took my board off the car.

 

Hey I did the same thing, only 15 minutes instead of 2. Stop copying me! Lol

Oh, and my board went in the vehicle today, not on.

 

Yesterday afternoon was FUUUUN. waist to chest high glass in the North Florida region with long-period swell in the water. Air temp 80 with 65 water temp. Even scored some playful barrels on the inside at dead high tide.

 

Today was not yesterday and was an over call a bit by SI. At dawn, the waves were clean knee to waist high. Within 45 minutes as the tide began to drop and the wind picked up, the water got choppier and waves got very small. But that first 45 minutes were a ton of fun and i got 2 rides of the day. Witnessed and screamed at by my buddies.

Fellas there is a change in the air amongst women. Four young women in their early 20's spotted my group of senior women, and ran to the ocean, looking at us and shouting out, GIRL POWER!" To which we YELLED out the current untypeable expletive that was part of the Million Woman march yesterday. The young guys watching the senior women shout out the expletive were joining in the fun and laughing.

That's what stoke will do to you.

 

I am sorry, but I did not watch women marching, so I don't know the expletive of the day. Can someone please inform this dumbass, what it was?? You see, I was walking with my wife, hand in hand as we have for 45 years, along the beaches of NH. She is confident that she was always treated as an equal by the one person from whom it mattered most......

 

On any given day here at my local, anywhere from 3-12 women will be surfing our coldwater waves. And surprisingly, none of them feel as if they are abused or underrepresented. They just surf, and they are stoked.

Who would've thunk it?

 

This morning wasn't yesterday, but I may have had more fun somehow. It was a little deep when I got in at sunrise, but within an hour the tide started to back off and waves were breaking waist - chest on sets. Swell out of the ESE / SE. Wind was light out of the SW / WSW and at times straight out of the West. It was bumpy one minute, clean the next. I had a high wave count today, even had a few backside roundhouses off the lip. I had the place to myself till the last hour of my 4hr session, only joined by two other dudes. Nobody spoke, we just surfed.

 

Only amongst the ones known as useful idiots...fortunately there are not many of them...

 

I think it was Fuk You and/or *Pvssy Power

 

How about we keep one of the only surfing related threads on the forum free of politics? Just one, let's give it a try.

 

if anyone else is bored at the moment,go to surfline and watch the cam rewind of pipeline from 1/19/17.absolutly epic pipe

 

#pussiepower

 

+1 CEp And +1 Vaughn.
Pretty decent weekend of surf.
I did complete a true scientific test today. Getting ready to paddle out and I look in my trusty Rubbermaid box (don't judge). And I see two different gloves (2mm and 5mm). First thought was are try opposite? Thankfully they where.

So, today I had a 5mm xcel bamboo 5mm and a ripcurl 2mm on. My final observation was that 2 mm was plenty (is this what post el Nino feels like cause I'm digging it) and 5mm was too much.

Definitely feels like a mild winter...

 

You are right. I regret that.

 

I've surfed down to 40 degree water with my 3 mil Xcel gloves, all I've ever used. Never got cold hands or fingers.

Gloves come off at 52 degrees. YMMV