who here has been surfing this week?

stay the fukkkk outta this surfing tread you piece of shiiiite

 

I checked it out.

Really loving it and really missing Oahu. Almost forgot what it looked like there! Haha.

 

Double low going off with possible hurricane force winds around Long Island...surf is going to be solid but the winds are problematic until she passes.

 

Usually my 2mm get me through...40 degrees is probably a good threshold for the 5mm.

 

Got out on Saturday as per SI advice to on foggy conditions. It wasn't that clean cuz of the crosswinds cancelling each other out, but patience is a virtue. They came up to waist high when they did break, rare chest, but they were easy to catch and even at hi tide you were able to stand and jump on em when they did. I took out Blue Steele, 9' Gary Wilson LB, and had plenty of rides in the 2 hr sesh. Only 5 guys in the water at my home break, and less than halfway through i was left alone on my side of the pier. The wind slowly picked up and soon as we all heard the thunder roll in, we took our sht out of the water. Great day, wasn't expected

 

Hella VAS conditions out here today. Wind is blasting and is only supposed to get stronger...
high tide later today is gonna be a b!tch with flooding

 

You from the valley?

 

Got out for aboot an hour in some small but clean peeling liners from the SE in the knee to thigh range. Nobody else even on the beach except a couple of dudes surfing down by the pier. Got some rights at first off my favorite sand bar then moved over to the next bar for some fun lefts. Wind has gone hard offshore now blowing flat whatever was left of the fading swell. Forecasts call for some possible north swell tomorrow with favorable winds. We'll see.

 

Valley of Victory of Sea. Look at the Wall......useless.....for now.

 

The last 4 days consecutively have been sick on cape. Thursday was well overhead, maybe 2x on the sets, got out with two friends after school and got some bombs. Friday tapered off but was probably chest high and glassy as glass. Saturday may have been the best of all, around head high, sometimes a little over. Then yesterday was probably the same size but pretty choppy, however the longest left of my life came out of it so I can't complain. Pics to come.

 

victory at sea in jers today,the atlantic looks rough.normally where I live when we get a big noreaster during the onshore days,its just big and lumpy.

right now theres like 12foot closeouts breaking half a mile out.going to do wonders for the sand so whenever it cleans up its going to be epic...aslong as winds cooperate

 

Saturday I drove up to Hobe Sound to miss the crowds and get a north ground swell with SW winds. High tide mid pm. By the time I got there, due to laziness and lack of planning, it was mushy on the outside bar maybe chest high. Headed back south to a reef break that has a point, cursing myself the whole way for the cardinal sin of sloth, and parked south of the point. It was warm, sunny and offshore.

I and I walked through the park, and cresting the dune it was beautiful, coming in clean nice lines on the outside, three waves per set, one dude out on a LB, and a few people way up the beach.. Grabbing the 6'6" round nosed round tailed Pete Dooley shaped NA with lots of volume, it was decided to go up the beach past the point to a sandbar way out and join a few people on it. The water was blue and clear, so it was awesome to skin it, and the paddle out was easy due to the lulls a long distance swell produces. No duck diving problems, Finally got it figured it out on this fatty, just start ducking almost a full second before normal.

It was butter, every 4 minutes a shoulder to head high set would pop up, a bumpy roll in, then a flying bouncing reform into a long series of cutbacks and off the lips just milking it to the beach. "It's like a machine" my buddy Terry yelled. He and two other core locals showed up, we didn't have to call each other it was just the place to be.

Later in the session on the paddle back out, a young lady asked me to help her get in, she was scared of the rocks lining the shore and the size and power of the swell (it was not big or powerful but everything is relative and what **** was going to leave her out there to figure it out, not me). Fun was had by all.

That night I danced with my wife for an hour to a great Latino guitar band on a pool deck and my ankles still hurt, but life is muy bueno!

 

hey Rocque, you think I could get away with my flash bomb plus in 44 degree water? ANYONE?

 

holy sheeeeet. checked it around 7 am at work (like I normally do), and surfline was calling it knee to waist and poor. Just on a whim, pulled out my phone and checked again around 2:30...holy crap. It had jumped to shoulder/head with head+ sets and they were calling it fair. Dropped what I was doing, grabbed my work/surf buddy and we hauled ass outta there. Swung by the house, grabbed a board and wetsuite and was on the beach by 3. Had jumped to head high / 2 ft overhead. Outside sets were clean and holding a line, but it was a bear of a paddleout; my buddy couldn't even make it out. Only caught 6 or 7 waves, but every one of them held open and offered a pretty good line. First real paddle out that took some effort since last winter. Was flat out invigorating with the cold and no one else out. Haven't had this much fun in a while. Evvery wave I caught was OH and stayed open. On my third beer, and stoked from today. Hope y'all catch it good soon!

 

Duuude! Sounds sic

 

Only if it's at least a 5 mil. I couldn't do 44 in a 4 mil.

 

Bouys reporting presently waves at 24ft/11 secs...winds a mere 40-50 miles.
Anybody want to go??
Barry would go......







Barry would be insane!!

 

Clean conditions last two days. This morning the air was a little chilly first thing so I wore the 3/2, water still feels warm though. Swell coming out of the N / NNE, wind was offshore out of the W, long lines rolling in but it was a little too deep so they were having a hard time breaking, but with some patience I managed to snag a few really good ones that made my morning. I bet it's really fun about now, probably waist - chest with bigger sets. The ones I got were long lefts. I like.

 

nantasket cam looks pretty radical!

 

would of been smart of me to at least tell ya its 4-3! derrr!