As a surfer, we put our self in danger each time we enter the ocean, or perhaps the drive to the beach being more dangerous. Question is, do you want to die surfing? Or some other way?
That reminds me of a story my pops told me. My great grandfather, who lived a long fulfilling life, decided that his time on this plain was over and he fulfilled his mission in life. He called the whole family over for a party and then announced he was going to die. That night he went to bed and never woke up.
Well.......I don't want out. But when I do I absolutely do not want to die surfing. No way. That sounds awful. Kooky to boot. I don't see romanticism in things like this. I think "He died doing what he loved" is pure bs. I'll settle for old, respected, and surrounded by loved ones.
I'm with Bubs that "dying while doing what he loved" is Bovine Scatology. Dying while surfing is not being lifted by a beautiful (preferably Hindu) angel into the heavens after being spit out of a big tube, it's more like a lot of panic and gasping for breath.
I agree with bubs and a going out like this^^^ Thats pretty incredible Arch. Death certainly isn't fully physical, it most definitely has a mental/psychological aspect to it. I don't want to go out any time soon. I have a lot of waves left to be caught, a lot of accomplishments to be accomplished, happiness to be had and love to be shared. All of our time is limited though, so make your stay count!
What if you just broke your neck or got knocked out on impact and didn't really feel a thing? Ripping one sec, gone in the blink of an eye. No struggle. I wonder if this would be a bad way to go vs. slowly dying in a bed while people take care of you.
Gonna wait till I'm about 65, head to Salmon Idaho with a schit tonne herb, ammo, ca-caine, and take out as many trappers and wolf hating predator outfitting guides as I can before the law dispatches me. In Samurai armour. No innocents will be harmed. I want these guys... "Meditation on inevitable death should be performed daily. Every day, when one's body and mind are at peace, one should meditate upon being ripped apart by arrows, rifles, spears, and swords, being carried away by surging waves, being thrown into the midst of a great fire, being struck by lightning, being shaken to death by a great earthquake, falling from thousand-foot cliffs, dying of disease or committing seppuku at the death of one's master. " "Even if one's head were to be suddenly cut off, he should be able to do one more action with certainty. With martial valor, if one becomes like a revengeful ghost and shows great determination, though his head is cut off, he should not die. "
Gonna wait till I'm about 65, head to Salmon Idaho with a schit tonne herb, ammo, ca-caine, and take out as many trappers and wolf hating predator outfitting guides as I can before the law dispatches me. In Samurai armour. No innocents will be harmed. I want these guys... "Meditation on inevitable death should be performed daily. Every day, when one's body and mind are at peace, one should meditate upon being ripped apart by arrows, rifles, spears, and swords, being carried away by surging waves, being thrown into the midst of a great fire, being struck by lightning, being shaken to death by a great earthquake, falling from thousand-foot cliffs, dying of disease or committing seppuku at the death of one's master. " "Even if one's head were to be suddenly cut off, he should be able to do one more action with certainty. With martial valor, if one becomes like a revengeful ghost and shows great determination, though his head is cut off, he should not die. "
DP, when you deal with death enough, you realize that it does not really matter how you go out, you simply go, and sometimes it is fast, while sometimes it is slow. Simply ensure that your soul is right with God, first, and then you will be at peace with all.